New Year 2020. The number looks futuristic and feels ordinary. Black-eyed peas. Cabbage. The kids counted down. I made a resolution, for the first time in four years: I'm going to fill the journal. Every recipe Mama knows. Every recipe Joey taught me. Every recipe I've invented in the four years of standing at this stove and writing about what happens when you feed people. The journal is half full. By December, I want it complete. A full record. A full preservation. Before — I don't finish the sentence. Before what? Before the cottage? Before Mama? Before the bayou takes what the bayou is taking? I don't finish it. I just open the journal and write.
Dr. Tran asked me about the journal this week. I told her about the recipes, the stories, the three hours with Mama. She said, "You're building a levee, Tommy." A levee. She's right. I'm building a levee out of recipes and stories to hold back the erosion — not of the coastline, but of the memory. The memory of Joey's laugh. The memory of Mama's hands. The memory of a culture that has survived everything and is still cooking. The levee won't hold forever. No levee does. But it'll hold long enough. Long enough for Rémy to read it. Long enough for his children to cook from it. Long enough.
Made a pot of turtle soup — the New Orleans classic, rich and sherry-dark, with hard-boiled egg and lemon. I don't make it often because turtle meat is hard to find and expensive when you find it, but New Year's Day deserves something extraordinary, and turtle soup is extraordinary. It's also the most Cajun thing you can make from a bayou creature, and making it on the first day of a new decade felt like a declaration: we're still here. Still cooking the things the bayou gives us. Still making something from nothing. Still Cajun. Still alive.
The turtle soup was the declaration — the extraordinary thing, the bayou creature, the “we’re still here” in a pot. But the rest of New Year’s Day called for something just as grounded in preservation: fermented cabbage, slow-cooked sausage, the kind of dish that’s been feeding families through hard winters longer than anyone can remember. Sauerkraut is a preserved thing, transformed by time and salt, and on the first day of the decade I was trying to preserve everything I love, that felt exactly right. This is the supper I made when the journal was still open on the counter and Mama’s handwriting was still drying on the page.
Sausage Sauerkraut Supper
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 40 minutes | Total Time: 50 minutes | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 lbs smoked kielbasa or andouille sausage, sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
- 1 can (32 oz) sauerkraut, drained and rinsed
- 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 cup chicken broth
- 1/2 cup dry white wine or additional broth
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
- 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1 tablespoon olive oil or bacon drippings
- Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish
Instructions
- Brown the sausage. Heat oil or drippings in a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the sausage slices in a single layer and cook until browned on both sides, about 3–4 minutes per side. Remove and set aside.
- Soften the onion. Reduce heat to medium. Add the sliced onion to the same pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more until fragrant.
- Build the base. Stir in the drained sauerkraut, brown sugar, caraway seeds, black pepper, and smoked paprika. Pour in the chicken broth and white wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot.
- Simmer together. Return the browned sausage to the pot. Stir everything to combine, then bring to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook over low heat for 25–30 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the flavors have melded and the liquid has reduced slightly.
- Finish and serve. Taste and adjust seasoning. Ladle into deep bowls and garnish with fresh parsley. Serve with crusty bread or over mashed potatoes to catch the broth.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 380 | Protein: 18g | Fat: 26g | Carbs: 14g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 1240mg