First week of September. The light is changing. I have been noticing it all week — the 5 PM gold, the shorter mornings, the particular crispness you feel in the air before you see it in the trees. Hartford is about to turn. I love this week. It is my favorite week of the year. September before real fall.
I made habichuelas this week. Two pots. One for home. One for the food bank. They are the same recipe. The food bank version was scaled to feed 140 people, so it was a four-hour pot instead of a two-hour pot, with more sofrito and more calabaza because the food bank calabaza had been donated and needed to go. The home version was a smaller thing. Both were good.
Food bank Thursday I did a pernil plus habichuelas plus rice. 147 people. Esther was there. Terrence was there. I told Terrence I had bought green figs at the bodega and was going to try his pumpkin soup next week. He nodded with gravity. He said, "Carmen, you will need the saltfish too." I said, "Okay." He said, "And thyme. Fresh thyme." I said, "I have thyme in my garden." He said, "Bring it." I will.
Mami on Sunday was quiet but present. She asked about my birthday. I said, "Mami, it is in two weeks. Nothing big. Sunday dinner." She said, "I want to make the flan." I said, "Mami, you do not need to make the flan. I will make the flan." She said, "Carmen, I want to make it. With you. We did this a year ago." I said, "Okay, Mami. We will make it together. Next Saturday." She said, "Good. Bring the eggs." I said, "I will bring the eggs."
Saturday I brought the eggs. Twelve yolks. And the condensed milk, the evaporated milk, the real vanilla, the sugar, a small saucepan. I set up at her kitchen. Mami directed. Her hands shook but she cracked the eggs one at a time. Her eyes were clear. Her memory was cooperative. The flan went into the oven at 3 PM. It came out at 3:50. We refrigerated it. I took it home for Sunday.
Mami at the end of the afternoon said, "Carmen, I am tired. But the flan is made. I will sit now." I sat her in her chair. I covered her. I kissed her forehead. I said, "Thank you, Mami." She said, "De nada, mija." Wepa.
The pernil I made at the food bank that Thursday — that four-hour pot feeding 147 people — reminded me that slow-cooked pork is the most forgiving thing I know how to make. You put it in, you let it go, and it rewards you every time. These carnitas are the home version of that same faith: low heat, patience, rendered fat, and something at the end that is worth sitting down for. After a week of scaled-up pots and Mami’s shaking hands cracking eggs one at a time, I wanted a recipe that honored the simplicity of just cooking well for the people in front of you.
Mexican Carnitas
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 2 hrs 30 min | Total Time: 2 hrs 45 min | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 3 lbs boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch chunks
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 medium white onion, roughly chopped
- 1 orange, juiced (about 1/3 cup)
- 1 lime, juiced (about 2 tablespoons)
- 1/2 cup chicken broth
- Warm corn tortillas, for serving
- Cilantro, diced white onion, and salsa, for topping
Instructions
- Season the pork. In a large bowl, toss pork chunks with salt, cumin, oregano, black pepper, and chili powder until evenly coated.
- Sear. Heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Working in batches, sear pork on all sides until deeply browned, about 3–4 minutes per side. Do not crowd the pan. Transfer seared pieces to a plate.
- Build the braise. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion to the same pot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute more. Return all pork to the pot.
- Add liquid. Pour in orange juice, lime juice, and chicken broth. Stir to combine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot.
- Slow cook. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 2 hours, turning pork occasionally, until meat is very tender and falling apart.
- Reduce and crisp. Uncover the pot and increase heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid reduces and the pork begins to fry in its own rendered fat, about 15–20 minutes. The edges should turn golden and slightly crispy.
- Shred and serve. Use two forks to coarsely shred the pork directly in the pot, mixing the crispy and tender pieces together. Serve in warm corn tortillas with cilantro, diced onion, and salsa.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 310 | Protein: 28g | Fat: 19g | Carbs: 5g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 390mg