Easter in the new house. The first holiday hosted here. The kitchen isn't fully done — the counter is butcher block but unfinished, the pot rack isn't up yet, the window over the sink has the view but needs new trim — but it works. The range works. The oven works. The kitchen works. And for Easter, the kitchen worked overtime.
I made the zurek, the pierogi, the golabki, the lamb. The full Easter spread. Cooked in the kitchen I designed, on the range I chose, at the counter I measured against Babcia's memory. Tom and Linda came. Patrick and Colleen came. The table was set in the dining room — a real dining room, with actual dining room furniture, in a house with rooms that have names and purposes. This is adulthood. This is what it looks like when a kid from Bay View grows up.
Linda walked into the kitchen and stopped. She looked at the range, the counter, the window over the sink. She said, "It looks like Mom's kitchen." She meant Babcia. She meant Babcia's kitchen in the house on the next block, the kitchen where I learned to love food, the kitchen where pierogi were made by hands gnarled with arthritis while hymns were hummed in Polish. My kitchen looks like Babcia's kitchen. I didn't design it to look like Babcia's kitchen. I designed it to feel like home. And home, for me, for all of us, is Babcia's kitchen. The convergence is accidental and inevitable and perfect.
Tom said, "Nice range." Two words. The highest compliment a man who installed the wiring for that range can give. Nice range. I will die happy.
After the zurek came out right and the golabki held together and Tom said “nice range,” I needed something sweet for the table—something that felt like it belonged alongside the rest of the spread, something with roots. Hungarian Nut Horns aren’t Polish, but they’re neighbors, and they’re the kind of pastry that would have been right at home in Babcia’s kitchen: flaky, nut-filled, dusted with powdered sugar, made by hand. Linda would have recognized them. Babcia would have recognized them. That felt like enough.
Hungarian Nut Horns
Prep Time: 30 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 50 min (plus 1 hour chilling) | Servings: 36 cookies
Ingredients
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 cup (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
- 1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
- 1/4 cup warm water (110°F)
- 2 egg yolks, beaten
- 1/2 cup sour cream
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 1/2 cups finely ground walnuts or pecans
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- Powdered sugar, for dusting
Instructions
- Dissolve yeast. In a small bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water and let sit 5 minutes until foamy.
- Make the dough. In a large bowl, combine flour and salt. Cut in cold butter using a pastry cutter or your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Stir in the yeast mixture, beaten egg yolks, sour cream, and vanilla extract. Mix until a soft dough forms. Do not overwork.
- Chill. Divide the dough into 3 equal portions, flatten each into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.
- Make the filling. In a small bowl, combine ground walnuts, granulated sugar, and cinnamon. Set aside.
- Preheat oven. Heat oven to 375°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
- Roll and fill. On a lightly floured surface, roll one disk of dough into a 12-inch circle. Sprinkle 1/3 of the nut filling evenly over the surface. Cut the circle into 12 wedges as you would a pizza.
- Shape the horns. Starting at the wide outer edge of each wedge, roll the dough tightly toward the point to form a crescent shape. Place point-side down on the prepared baking sheet and curve the ends slightly. Repeat with remaining dough and filling.
- Bake. Bake for 18–22 minutes, until lightly golden on the bottom and just set on top. Do not over-brown.
- Finish. Let cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. Dust generously with powdered sugar while still warm. Dust again once fully cooled.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 118 | Protein: 2g | Fat: 8g | Carbs: 10g | Fiber: 0.5g | Sodium: 38mg