Potato and Cheese Pierogi — The Ones That Filled the Room

Easter Sunday. Mom outdid herself. The table at the Cape Cod looked like something from a magazine — white tablecloth, the good china that Babcia gave Mom when she got married, a vase of daffodils from the yard. Ham glazed with honey and cloves. Hard-boiled eggs dyed the old-fashioned way, with onion skins. Horseradish so fresh it made your eyes water from three feet away. Beet relish the color of rubies. Babka — golden and braided and still warm. And my contribution: three kinds of pierogi and the kapusta. We set a place for Babcia. Nobody discussed it. Mom just put out an extra plate, an extra glass, an extra set of silverware. We blessed the food. Dad said grace — he never says grace, that was always Babcia's job — and his voice cracked on the word "remember" and then he cleared his throat and said "Amen" like nothing happened. The pierogi were good. Really good. Mom took one bite of the potato and cheese and looked at me and said, "Jake, these are..." and she couldn't finish the sentence. They weren't Babcia's. They'll never be Babcia's. But they were close. They were close enough to fill the room with her, just for a moment. Uncle Stan and Aunt Debbie came. Cousin Mikey and his wife. The Wojciks from church. Mrs. Katz — Danny's mom — stopped by with a pie, which she does every holiday because she doesn't like Jake's family to be alone on holidays, which is really because she doesn't like to be alone on holidays. I hugged her at the door and she said, "Your Babcia is so proud of you, honey," and I had to go to the bathroom and run the faucet for a few minutes. After dinner, Dad and I sat on the porch. It was cold — April in Milwaukee, so maybe forty-two degrees — but we had our coats and Dad had a beer and I had a beer and we watched the street. He said, "You did good today, kid. The pierogi." I said thanks. He said, "She taught you well." I said, "She taught all of us." He nodded. We sat there until it got dark. Mom came out and said, "You two are going to freeze," and Dad said, "We're fine," which is the Kowalski family motto. The rest of the week was quiet. Back to the brewery Monday. Marcus approved my Helen's Wheat recipe — he wants me to do a test batch next month. I'm nervous and excited in equal measure. A beer named for my grandmother, made by my hands, in the city where she lived her whole life. It feels big. Bigger than beer. I also made Babcia's cold beet soup — chłodnik — on Wednesday. It's a summer soup, really, but I was craving it. Beets, buttermilk, dill, hardboiled eggs. Served cold. It's the most aggressively Polish thing you can eat. It's purple. It's beautiful. I posted it on Instagram and someone commented, "That looks like a crime scene," which honestly is fair.

Of everything on that table — the ham, the babka, the horseradish that could strip paint — it was the potato and cheese pierogi that stopped the room. One bite and Mom couldn’t finish her sentence, and honestly, that said more than any words could have. They’ll never be Babcia’s, not exactly, but making them is the closest I get to sitting in her kitchen again, flour on my elbows, her hand guiding mine over the dough. If you’ve got someone you’re cooking to remember, this is the recipe to start with.

Potato and Cheese Pierogi

Prep Time: 1 hour | Cook Time: 30 minutes | Total Time: 1 hour 30 minutes | Servings: 6 (about 36 pierogi)

Ingredients

Dough:

• 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
• 1 large egg
• 2 tablespoons sour cream
• 3/4 cup warm water
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Filling:

• 1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed
• 1 cup sharp white cheddar cheese, shredded
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

For cooking and serving:

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
• Sour cream, for serving
• Fresh chives, chopped, for garnish

Instructions

1. Make the dough. In a large bowl, whisk together flour and salt. Make a well in the center and add the egg, sour cream, and warm water. Stir with a fork until a shaggy dough forms, then turn out onto a floured surface and knead for 5 to 7 minutes until smooth and elastic. Wrap in plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
2. Prepare the filling. Boil the potatoes in salted water until fork-tender, about 15 minutes. Drain well. Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium heat and cook the diced onion until soft and golden, about 8 minutes. Mash the potatoes with the cooked onion, cheddar, salt, and pepper until smooth. Let cool slightly.
3. Roll and cut the dough. Divide the dough in half. On a well-floured surface, roll one half to about 1/8-inch thickness. Cut circles using a 3-inch round cutter or the rim of a glass. Gather scraps, re-roll, and cut again. Repeat with the second half of dough.
4. Fill and seal. Place about 1 tablespoon of filling in the center of each dough circle. Fold the dough over to form a half-moon and pinch the edges firmly to seal, pressing out any air. Crimp with a fork if desired. Place finished pierogi on a lightly floured sheet pan.
5. Boil the pierogi. Bring a large pot of salted water to a gentle boil. Working in batches of 8 to 10, drop pierogi into the water. They will sink to the bottom — stir gently to prevent sticking. Once they float to the surface, cook 2 minutes more. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate lightly greased with butter.
6. Pan-fry until golden. In a large skillet, melt 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the sliced onion and cook until caramelized, about 10 minutes. Push onions to the side and add boiled pierogi in a single layer. Cook 2 to 3 minutes per side until golden brown and crispy.
7. Serve. Plate the pierogi topped with the caramelized onions, a generous dollop of sour cream, and a scattering of fresh chives.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 485 | Protein: 14g | Fat: 19g | Carbs: 64g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 520mg