Opening Day. The Brewers are back, and after last year's run to Game 7 of the NLCS, the whole city feels like it's holding its breath and hoping. I went to the home opener with Dad on Thursday — forty-one degrees, overcast, classic Milwaukee spring baseball weather. We ate brats and drank overpriced beer and watched Yelich hit a home run in the third inning and Dad said, "This is our year," which he says every year and which is always wrong but always hopeful.
The guest blog post went live this week. A local food blog called Milwaukee Eats published my short rib and horseradish pierogi recipe. Full write-up, photos (taken on my cracked iPhone — I really need to upgrade), and a bio that described me as "a Bay View brewer who cooks like his Polish grandmother." That's... accurate.
The response was bigger than I expected. The post got shared on Facebook about two hundred times. My Instagram gained six hundred followers in three days. People I don't know are making my pierogi. Someone tagged me in a photo of their attempt — the dough was too thick, the filling was leaking, but they were trying, and they were smiling, and seeing someone smile while making a recipe I created was one of the strangest and best feelings I've ever had.
Mrs. Wojcik called me on Thursday. She'd seen the blog post. "Jakub," she said. "This is it. This is the beginning." I said the beginning of what. She said, "You know what." And hung up. Mrs. Wojcik is the most dramatic octogenarian in Milwaukee.
At the brewery, Helen's Wheat is back on the board for spring. The seasonal rotation is strong: Helen's Wheat, Bay View Bloom (the cream ale with lavender), the pumpkin porter (holdover from fall), and I'm developing something new — a Polish-inspired honey wheat doppelbock I'm calling Midnight Mass. Strong, sweet, warming. The kind of beer you'd drink after a late service on Christmas Eve.
Cooked something celebratory this week: homemade kielbasa. From scratch. Ground pork, garlic, marjoram, allspice, black pepper, curing salt. Stuffed into natural casings. Smoked on the Weber for four hours with cherry wood. The result was extraordinary — snappy casing, smoky, garlicky, with that unmistakable Polish flavor. It's nowhere near as good as Vince's Meat Market, which has been making kielbasa for sixty years, but it's mine. Made by my hands. Babcia would have been impressed. And then she would have told me to add more garlic.
After four hours of smoke on the Weber and the most satisfying snap I’ve ever heard pulling a link off the rack, I needed something on the plate beside that kielbasa that was worthy of the occasion — and nothing in the Polish culinary canon is more fitting than kapuzta, the slow-braised sauerkraut dish Babcia made every time a big pork project came out of the kitchen. It’s tart, savory, and deeply warming, the kind of side that doesn’t compete with smoked meat so much as it completes it. Mrs. Wojcik would call it obligatory. She’d be right.
Kapuzta
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 45 min | Total Time: 1 hr | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 2 lbs sauerkraut, drained and rinsed
- 1/2 lb kielbasa or smoked pork, sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 3 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped
- 1 cup low-sodium chicken or pork broth
- 1 tsp caraway seeds
- 2 bay leaves
- 1/2 tsp black pepper
- 1/2 tsp sugar (to balance acidity)
- 1 tbsp unsalted butter
Instructions
- Render the bacon. In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, cook the chopped bacon until the fat is rendered and the bacon is lightly crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the drippings in the pot.
- Sauté the aromatics. Add the diced onion to the bacon drippings and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to turn golden, about 7 minutes.
- Brown the kielbasa. Add the sliced kielbasa to the pot and cook for 3–4 minutes, turning once, until lightly browned on the cut sides. This builds flavor in the fond on the bottom of the pot.
- Add the sauerkraut. Add the drained sauerkraut to the pot and stir to combine with the onion and kielbasa. Pour in the broth and stir in the caraway seeds, bay leaves, black pepper, and sugar.
- Braise low and slow. Bring the mixture to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook for 35–40 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes, until the sauerkraut has softened and absorbed most of the broth. The mixture should be moist but not soupy.
- Finish and serve. Remove the bay leaves. Stir in the butter and the reserved bacon. Taste and adjust seasoning — add a pinch more sugar if too tart, or a splash of broth if it looks dry. Serve hot alongside kielbasa, boiled potatoes, or dark rye bread.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 210 | Protein: 11g | Fat: 14g | Carbs: 9g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 890mg
About the cook who shared this
Jake Kowalski
Week 157 of Jake’s 30-year story
· Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Jake is a twenty-nine-year-old brewery worker, newlywed, and proud Polish-American from Milwaukee's Bay View neighborhood. He didn't start cooking until his grandmother Babcia Helen passed away and left behind a stack of grease-stained recipe cards. Now he makes pierogi from scratch, smokes meats on a balcony smoker his landlord pretends not to notice, and writes for guys who want to cook good food but don't know a roux from a rub.