Jelly Doughnuts — Because the Filling Is the Whole Point

Purim. Hamantaschen. Sylvia's dough. Poppy seed and apricot filling. Six dozen cookies distributed across my communities. The distributing is the holiday. The sharing is the joy. The joy is the hamantaschen. I brought Marvin two — one poppy seed, one apricot. He ate the apricot. He left the poppy seed. This is new — he has always eaten both, and the leaving of the poppy seed is a data point, a small data point in the declining curve of his appetite, a note in the journal that says: the eating is narrowing, the preferences are simplifying, the body is making choices that the mind cannot explain. He chose apricot. The choosing is significant. The choosing means: I am still here. I still have preferences. I am not entirely gone. The poppy seed can wait. The apricot is what I want. And the wanting is the man. And the man is still in there. Somewhere. Choosing apricot.

I keep thinking about the apricot — the one he chose, the one he finished, the one that said I am still here. Hamantaschen are about filling, really: the dough is just the vessel, and the filling is the declaration. Jelly doughnuts work the same way. You fry the dough, you push the jam inside, and what you’ve made is a small, warm argument for sweetness — for the particular sweetness someone still wants, still reaches for, still names. I made these the week after Purim, and I filled half with apricot.

Jelly Doughnuts

Prep Time: 30 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 1 hr 30 min (includes rise) | Servings: 16 doughnuts

Ingredients

• 1 packet (2 1/4 tsp) active dry yeast
• 3/4 cup warm whole milk (about 110°F)
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar, divided
• 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
• 1/2 tsp fine salt
• 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
• 3 large egg yolks
• 4 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
• 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
• Vegetable oil, for frying (about 4 cups)
• 3/4 cup apricot jam or seedless raspberry jam (or a mix)
• 1/2 cup powdered sugar, for dusting

Instructions

1. Activate the yeast. In a small bowl, combine warm milk, yeast, and 1 tsp of the granulated sugar. Stir gently and let sit 5–8 minutes until foamy. If it doesn’t foam, start over with fresh yeast.
2. Mix the dough. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, remaining sugar, salt, and nutmeg. Add the yeast mixture, egg yolks, softened butter, and vanilla. Stir until a shaggy dough forms, then turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead 8–10 minutes until smooth and slightly tacky. The dough should spring back when poked.
3. First rise. Place dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a clean towel, and let rise in a warm spot for 1 hour or until doubled in size.
4. Cut the rounds. Punch down the dough and turn out onto a floured surface. Roll to about 1/2-inch thickness. Using a 2 1/2-inch round cutter, cut out circles. Re-roll scraps once. Place rounds on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover loosely, and let rest 20 minutes.
5. Heat the oil. In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat 3 inches of vegetable oil to 350°F. Use a thermometer — temperature control is essential for doughnuts that are cooked through without burning.
6. Fry the doughnuts. Working in batches of 3–4, gently lower rounds into the hot oil. Fry 1 1/2–2 minutes per side, turning once, until deep golden brown. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined rack to drain. Allow oil to return to 350°F between batches.
7. Fill the doughnuts. Once cool enough to handle, fit a piping bag or a squeeze bottle with a narrow tip. Insert the tip into the side of each doughnut and pipe about 1 1/2 tsp of jam into the center. You’ll feel the doughnut expand slightly as it fills.
8. Dust and serve. Sift powdered sugar generously over the filled doughnuts. Serve warm or at room temperature the same day they’re made, when the dough is at its softest.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 210 | Protein: 3g | Fat: 9g | Carbs: 30g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 85mg