Italian Leg of Lamb

I placed third at the Arizona State BBQ Championship. Third overall, out of fifty-two teams. Second in brisket (97 points). Fourth in ribs (96 points). Combined: third place in the semi-pro/professional division.

Third. Not first. Not the gold trophy. But third at the State Championship, against professionals, against teams with custom rigs that cost more than my Silverado, against pitmasters who do this full-time. Third place as a firefighter-slash-Battalion-Chief-slash-magazine-columnist who cooks in his backyard and dreams about a restaurant on a corner in Mesa. Third is a statement. Third says: I belong here. Third says: the food is real. Third says: the dream is not a fantasy.

The brisket was my second-best ever — the 97 matched the Fall Smoke Classic score. The judges' notes: "Superb bark, complex smoke flavor, excellent moisture throughout. The flat is among the best we have judged this season." The flat. Roberto's nemesis. The part that has plagued me since the beginning. The 97 means the flat is solved. The flat is no longer the weakness. The flat is the strength. I followed Sofia's recommendation and wrapped at 165 instead of 170. The extra five degrees of unwrapped cooking time built a deeper bark. My eight-year-old was right.

The ribs were good but not my best — the wind shifted during the cook and the sauce application was uneven (the same wind problem from 2019 — some variables I cannot control). Fourth in ribs at the State Championship is still a top-tier finish, and the ancho-cocoa rub continues to distinguish my ribs from the field.

Roberto's review: "Third at State. Not first. But third against the best. That is a restaurant resume, mijo." The most strategic thing he has ever said about my cooking. He is not just judging the food anymore. He is judging the trajectory. He sees where this is going. He has always seen where this is going.

Sofia's notebook entry: "Daddy got third at State. The brisket was second. My wrap recommendation worked. The ribs were fourth because of wind. Next time: build a wind barrier." She has already identified the solution for the next competition. She is eight. She is planning two competitions ahead. I am being coached by a third-grader with a spreadsheet and wind mitigation strategies.

After the awards ceremony, after Roberto’s quiet nod and Sofia’s notebook was finally closed for the night, I wanted to cook something at home that honored what we’d just done — a big, proud cut of meat that demands patience and technique, the same skills that earned us that third-place finish. This Italian Leg of Lamb is that cook: herb-crusted, slow-roasted, the kind of centerpiece that says the people at this table have something to celebrate. It’s not brisket, but it speaks the same language — respect the cut, trust the process, let the meat do the talking.

Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 2 hours 30 minutes | Total Time: 2 hours 50 minutes | Servings: 8

Ingredients

1 bone-in leg of lamb (about 6 to 7 pounds), trimmed
8 cloves garlic, cut into slivers
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced
1 tablespoon fresh oregano, minced
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken broth
1 lemon, sliced into rounds
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, for roasting

Instructions

Prep the lamb. Remove the leg of lamb from the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking to bring it to room temperature. Preheat oven to 450°F.
Stud with garlic. Using the tip of a sharp knife, cut small slits all over the lamb about 1 inch apart. Insert a garlic sliver into each slit.
Season generously. In a small bowl, combine the minced rosemary, thyme, oregano, olive oil, lemon juice, salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes to form a paste. Rub the herb paste evenly over the entire surface of the lamb.
Sear at high heat. Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan. Arrange lemon slices and rosemary sprigs around the lamb. Roast at 450°F for 20 minutes to develop a golden-brown crust.
Add liquid and reduce heat. Pour the white wine and chicken broth into the bottom of the roasting pan. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F.
Slow roast. Continue roasting for approximately 2 hours, or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part reads 145°F for medium. Baste with pan juices every 30 minutes.
Rest the meat. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Let rest for 15 to 20 minutes before carving. The internal temperature will rise 5 to 10 degrees during resting.
Make the jus. Place the roasting pan over medium heat on the stovetop. Scrape up any browned bits and simmer the pan juices for 3 to 5 minutes until slightly reduced. Strain and serve alongside the carved lamb.

Nutrition (per serving)

Italian Leg of Lamb — A Third-Place Pitmaster’s Victory Cut