Mama has started calling me every morning at 5:30. She says she is just checking in, but what she is really doing is not being alone in the house where she lived with Baba for forty years. The house on Dodecanese Boulevard, where every room still smells like him — flour and honey and the faint salt of a man who was once a sponge diver. She will not say she is lonely. Greek women of her generation do not say lonely. They say busy and then call their daughters at 5:30 AM because the busy has not started yet and the silence is too loud.
I listen. I am usually awake anyway — real estate agents and bakery daughters keep the same pre-dawn hours. She tells me what she is baking, what Dimitri did wrong yesterday, how the new girl at the counter cannot tell phyllo from puff pastry. I make coffee and listen and say nai Mama and sometimes I hear her voice catch on something — a memory, a habit, the reflex of turning to say something to someone who is not there — and my heart breaks a little more, and I pour more coffee and listen harder.
I took Sophia to the mall because she is thirteen and apparently the mall is oxygen. She wanted new clothes. She tried on things that made me feel ancient and rolled her eyes at every suggestion I made and I thought: this is exactly what I did to Voula, and Voula survived, and I will survive. Sophia is testing boundaries with maximum drama and minimum gratitude. I love her so fiercely it makes my eyes sting.
I made souvlaki tonight. Chicken, not pork, because Sophia does not like pork — a preference Baba would have found personally offensive, since pork souvlaki was the only real souvlaki according to Nikos Papadopoulos. I marinated the chicken in lemon, garlic, oregano, and olive oil — always too much olive oil, because there is no such thing as too much. I grilled it on the little Weber and served it with tzatziki and pita and a horiatiki that would have made Despina proud.
Alexander ate three skewers and asked for the recipe. He has never asked for a recipe before. Something shifted in him this year — grief, or growing up, or both — and he is paying attention to food in a way he never did. I wrote it on an index card. Lemon. Garlic. Oregano. Oil. Patience. The Papadopoulos recipe for everything. He took the card and put it in his wallet, which is the most sentimental thing my analytical son has ever done, and I pretended not to notice because noticing would have ruined it entirely.
Alexander putting that index card in his wallet broke something open in me — the realization that the things I cook without thinking, the ratios I learned by watching Despina and never once wrote down, are worth preserving before they exist only in my hands. This is the recipe as I made it that Sunday, adapted for chicken since Sophia is who she is, with the marinade amounts finally measured instead of eyeballed so that Alexander — and anyone else who needs it — can actually follow it someday. The only ingredient I couldn’t put on the card is the patience, but I’ve done my best to explain it here.
Lemon Chicken Souvlaki with Tzatziki
Prep Time: 20 min (plus 2–4 hrs marinating) | Cook Time: 15 min | Total Time: 35 min active | Servings: 4
Ingredients
For the Souvlaki:
- 2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
- 1/3 cup good olive oil, plus more for grill
- Juice of 2 lemons (about 1/4 cup)
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 teaspoons dried oregano
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
For the Tzatziki:
- 1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt
- 1 medium cucumber, grated and squeezed very dry
- 2 cloves garlic, finely grated or minced
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 2 tablespoons fresh dill or mint, finely chopped
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
To Serve:
- 4–6 warm pita breads
- Sliced tomato and red onion
- Fresh parsley, for garnish
- Lemon wedges
Instructions
- Make the marinade. Whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, lemon zest, garlic, oregano, salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes in a bowl or zip-top bag.
- Marinate the chicken. Add the chicken pieces and toss to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to overnight. The longer it sits, the deeper the flavor.
- Make the tzatziki. Grate the cucumber, then gather it in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible—this step matters. Combine cucumber with yogurt, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, dill, and salt. Stir well, taste for seasoning, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
- Thread the skewers. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes. Thread chicken pieces onto skewers, leaving a little space between each piece so they cook evenly.
- Grill. Heat a gas grill or charcoal grill (a little Weber works beautifully) to medium-high. Brush grates lightly with oil. Grill skewers 4–5 minutes per side, turning once or twice, until cooked through and the edges have a little char. Internal temperature should reach 165°F.
- Rest and serve. Let the skewers rest 2–3 minutes off the heat. Serve over or alongside warm pita with a generous spoonful of tzatziki, sliced tomato and red onion, fresh parsley, and a wedge of lemon.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 480 | Protein: 42g | Fat: 26g | Carbs: 18g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 680mg