Deluxe Macaroni — The Side Dish That Holds the Table Together

July 2024. Memphis summer, 65 years old, and the heat wraps around Orange Mound like a wet blanket that nobody asked for but everybody wears because that is the deal you make when you live in the South. The smoker calls louder in summer — something about the heat amplifying the smoke, the way humidity amplifies everything in Memphis — and I answer, because answering is what pitmasters do.

Rosetta beside me through the week, steady as ever, the woman who runs this household with the precision of a hospital ward and the heart of a mother who has loved fiercely for 40 years of marriage. The BBQ class at the community center continues — students of all ages learning fire and smoke, and me learning that teaching is its own kind of cooking: you prepare, you present, you hope something sticks.

I made cornbread in the cast iron skillet — buttermilk, cornmeal, bacon drippings, the recipe that goes back to Mama and before Mama to her mama and before that to wherever the tradition began. Baked at 425 until golden and crusty, the edges dark and lacy, the center soft and crumbling. Some weeks cornbread is enough. Some weeks the simplest food is the most profound.

The week ended on the porch with Rosetta, the evening settling over Orange Mound, the smoker cooling in the backyard. The fire was banked but not out — it's never out, just resting between cooks, holding the heat the way I hold the tradition: carefully, permanently, with the understanding that what Uncle Clyde gave me is not mine to keep but mine to pass, and the passing is the purpose.

That cornbread I mentioned — it got me thinking about all the sides that hold a cookout together, the dishes that don’t get the smoke-ring glory but earn just as much love at the table. The smoked wings are the headliner, yes, but Rosetta will tell you that no plate in this house leaves the kitchen without something creamy and rich beside it, and for us that something has always been macaroni and cheese — real macaroni and cheese, the kind baked in a deep dish with enough cheese to make you feel like the week was worth every bit of effort.

Deluxe Macaroni ’n’ Cheese

Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 35 minutes | Total Time: 55 minutes | Servings: 8

Ingredients

• 3 cups elbow macaroni, uncooked
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 1/2 cups whole milk
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
• 1 cup Gruyère cheese, shredded
• 1/2 cup American cheese, cubed
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1/2 cup seasoned breadcrumbs
• 2 tablespoons butter, melted (for topping)

Instructions

1. Boil the pasta. Cook elbow macaroni in salted boiling water until just shy of al dente, about 6 minutes. Drain and set aside — it will finish cooking in the oven.
2. Build the roux. In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, melt 4 tablespoons butter. Whisk in flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes until the mixture turns light golden and smells nutty.
3. Make the sauce. Gradually whisk in the whole milk and heavy cream, pouring in a slow, steady stream. Stir continuously until the sauce thickens and coats the back of a spoon, about 6–8 minutes. Season with dry mustard, garlic powder, onion powder, salt, black pepper, and cayenne.
4. Melt in the cheeses. Reduce heat to low. Add cheddar, Gruyère, and American cheese in three additions, stirring until fully melted and smooth between each addition. Remove from heat and stir in sour cream until incorporated.
5. Combine. Fold the drained macaroni into the cheese sauce until every piece is well coated. Transfer the mixture to a greased 9x13-inch baking dish and spread evenly.
6. Add the topping. Toss breadcrumbs with 2 tablespoons melted butter and sprinkle evenly over the top of the macaroni.
7. Bake. Bake uncovered at 375°F for 25–30 minutes, until the top is golden brown and the edges are bubbling. Let rest 10 minutes before serving so the sauce sets up properly.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 520 | Protein: 21g | Fat: 28g | Carbs: 47g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 610mg