Chorizo-Queso Egg Rolls -- When Your Son’s Poppers Are Better Than Yours

Super Bowl week. The pandemic is still here but we've adapted. The adaptation looks like: smaller gatherings, masks when close, the particular dance of proximity and caution that has become the choreography of American social life. I made wings — the annual smoked wings, buffalo and bourbon honey — and Clay made jalapeño poppers at the restaurant and brought them home and they were better than mine. Better. His poppers had a maple glaze that Ray taught him, and the maple cut the heat of the jalapeño and the cream cheese was smoky because he smoked the poppers over cherry wood and the whole thing was a level above what I make at home, and I sat on the couch eating my son's superior jalapeño poppers and felt the specific pride-and-sting of being surpassed by your own student.

Travis and Jolene watched from their couch via FaceTime because Jolene is pregnant and cautious and Travis is Travis-adjacent to whatever Jolene decides. Clay came over. Connie was here. The Super Bowl was background noise to the eating, which is the correct relationship between football and food: football is the excuse; food is the reason.

The poppers, though. I can't get past the poppers. They were ninety-five percent. Clay's jalapeño poppers are ninety-five percent. And my jalapeño poppers are... eighty-five percent. My son's food is better than mine. In one specific category, on one specific dish, the student has surpassed the teacher. This is what I wanted. This is what every teacher wants. And it stings anyway because the ego is not rational and the ego keeps score even when the heart is cheering. My heart is cheering. My ego is sulking. The poppers were magnificent.

I’m not going to out-popper Clay — not this year, maybe not ever — but I’m not ready to concede the entire appetizer category just because my kid found a maple glaze and a cherry wood smoker. These Chorizo-Queso Egg Rolls are where I plant my flag: crispy shell, molten spiced cheese, the kind of hand-held heat-delivery system that belongs on any game day table next to a cold drink and a FaceTime call from Travis and Jolene. The poppers were magnificent. These are my answer. The ego has to do something.

Chorizo-Queso Egg Rolls

Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 15 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 6 (2 egg rolls each)

Ingredients

• 1/2 lb fresh Mexican chorizo, casings removed
• 1/2 cup diced white onion
• 1 jalapeño, seeded and finely diced
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 cup shredded Pepper Jack cheese
• 1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
• 4 oz cream cheese, softened
• 2 tbsp canned diced green chiles, drained
• 1/2 tsp smoked paprika
• 1/4 tsp cumin
• 12 egg roll wrappers
• 1 egg, beaten (for sealing)
• Vegetable oil, for frying (about 3 cups)
• Sour cream or salsa verde, for serving

Instructions

1. Cook the chorizo filling. In a skillet over medium-high heat, brown the chorizo, breaking it up as it cooks, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and jalapeño and cook until softened, 3 more minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook 30 seconds. Drain excess grease.
2. Mix the queso filling. Transfer the chorizo mixture to a bowl and let cool 5 minutes. Stir in the cream cheese, Pepper Jack, cheddar, green chiles, smoked paprika, and cumin until fully combined. Taste and adjust seasoning.
3. Roll the egg rolls. Lay an egg roll wrapper in a diamond orientation. Spoon about 3 tbsp of filling near the bottom third of the wrapper. Fold the bottom corner up over the filling, fold in the sides, then roll up firmly. Brush the top corner with beaten egg and press to seal. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.
4. Heat the oil. Pour vegetable oil into a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven to a depth of about 2 inches. Heat over medium-high heat to 350°F. Use a thermometer for accuracy.
5. Fry in batches. Working in batches of 3–4, carefully lower egg rolls into the hot oil. Fry 3–4 minutes, turning occasionally, until deep golden brown and crispy all over. Transfer to a wire rack or paper-towel-lined plate.
6. Serve immediately. Let rest 2 minutes before cutting or serving whole. Plate alongside sour cream or salsa verde for dipping.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 420 | Protein: 18g | Fat: 26g | Carbs: 28g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 780mg