This week was about practice. Specifically, practicing the mushroom soup.
I went to Mrs. Wojcik's house on Saturday — her actual house, not the Polish Center — for a private tutorial. Her kitchen is small and immaculate and smells like decades of Polish cooking embedded in the walls. She has a crucifix above the stove and a photo of Pope John Paul II on the refrigerator and a hand-embroidered towel that says "Smacznego" (the Polish equivalent of bon appétit) hanging by the sink.
We made the soup together. Step by step. She watched my hands the way a piano teacher watches a student's fingers — looking for errors in technique, not just results.
The process: Soak the dried mushrooms overnight. Simmer them in the soaking liquid for an hour. Strain through cheesecloth — every bit of grit has to go. Sauté onion in butter until golden. Add the mushroom broth. Simmer with a bay leaf, allspice berries, and peppercorns. Add cream at the very end — just a splash, just enough to soften the color from dark brown to a warm amber. Salt to taste. Serve with uszka — tiny dumplings filled with mushroom and onion.
The uszka are the hard part. They're like pierogi's tiny cousin — same dough, but smaller and shaped differently, folded into little ear shapes (uszka means "little ears" in Polish). Babcia made hundreds of them every Christmas Eve. I've been making pierogi for months but uszka require a different precision — the dough has to be thinner, the filling smaller, the folding tighter.
Mrs. Wojcik watched me fold the first one. "Too big," she said. Second one: "Better." Third one: "Acceptable." Tenth one: "Now you have it." By the end of the session, I'd made four dozen uszka and a pot of soup that Mrs. Wojcik tasted and pronounced "very nearly correct," which from her is like winning the Nobel Prize.
"What am I missing?" I asked.
"Time," she said. "The soup needs time. Make it two days before Wigilia. Let it sit. Reheat it on Christmas Eve. The flavors will marry."
Time. Of course. Everything good in Polish cooking takes time. The bigos. The pierogi. The żurek starter. And now the soup. You can't rush love and you can't rush soup.
After spending a Saturday learning to coax every drop of flavor out of dried mushrooms for Mrs. Wojcik’s Wigilia soup, I found myself looking at a pound of fresh cremini in my refrigerator and wanting to keep working with the ingredient that has consumed my cooking brain for weeks. Baked mushrooms aren’t the soup — not by a long shot — but they share that same quality Mrs. Wojcik was trying to teach me: patience, simplicity, and letting the mushroom speak. If you’re not ready to commit to a two-day soup project, start here and let the humble mushroom earn your respect first.
Baked Mushrooms
Prep Time: 10 min | Cook Time: 25 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 lb fresh cremini or button mushrooms, cleaned and stems trimmed
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
- 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)
Instructions
- Preheat. Heat your oven to 400°F. Lightly grease a 9x13-inch baking dish or a rimmed sheet pan.
- Prep the mushrooms. Wipe mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel — do not rinse under water, as they will absorb it. Leave small mushrooms whole; halve any that are larger than 1 1/2 inches across.
- Toss. In a large bowl, combine the melted butter, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Add the mushrooms and toss until evenly coated.
- Arrange and bake. Spread the mushrooms in a single layer in the prepared baking dish, cap-side down. Bake uncovered for 20–25 minutes, until the mushrooms are deeply golden, tender, and have released most of their liquid.
- Finish. Remove from the oven. If using Parmesan, sprinkle it over the mushrooms immediately and let it melt from the residual heat for 2 minutes. Scatter the parsley over the top.
- Serve. Serve hot as a side dish, spooned over toasted bread, or alongside roasted meat. Any pan juices are liquid gold — spoon them over everything.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 115 | Protein: 4g | Fat: 9g | Carbs: 6g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 310mg
About the cook who shared this
Jake Kowalski
Week 142 of Jake’s 30-year story
· Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Jake is a twenty-nine-year-old brewery worker, newlywed, and proud Polish-American from Milwaukee's Bay View neighborhood. He didn't start cooking until his grandmother Babcia Helen passed away and left behind a stack of grease-stained recipe cards. Now he makes pierogi from scratch, smokes meats on a balcony smoker his landlord pretends not to notice, and writes for guys who want to cook good food but don't know a roux from a rub.