I went to Evarts on Saturday. February in Harlan County is the bottom of the year — the hollow where Betty's house sits gets maybe three hours of direct sunlight and the rest is shadow and cold. The road in was icy again. The truck complained on the grades. I complained on the grades. We are two old machines getting up a mountain.
Betty's vision is stable. "Stable" is the doctor's word. Betty's word is "fine," which covers everything from excellent to terminal. She's wearing reading glasses now for the Bible, which she resisted for months before admitting that the Lord probably didn't intend her to squint through Psalms. She can still see the garden from the porch. She can still drive to church, though Dale says she shouldn't. Dale and Betty are having the driving argument every week now and neither is winning because the Hensley stubborn gene is bilateral — it was in Earl and it's in Betty and it has been passed to all six children with undiminished intensity.
I told Betty about Clay. She already knew — I'd told her at Thanksgiving — but I told her again because I needed to tell someone who wouldn't try to fix it. Connie tries to fix. Amber tries to argue. Travis tries to comfort. Betty just listens. She sat in her kitchen with a cup of coffee and listened to me talk about Clay and the Army and the fear and the helplessness, and when I was done she said "His grandfather went into the mountain. His father went into the mountain. His mountain is just in a different place."
That's it. That's what she said. And it's the truest thing anyone has said about Clay's decision because it strips away all the fear and the anger and the disappointment and gets to the bone: Hensley men go into mountains. Some mountains are made of coal. Some are made of sand. The mountain doesn't matter. The going matters. The coming home matters.
Betty made soup beans for lunch. Monday soup beans on a Saturday, because I was there and I was hurting and soup beans are medicine. She moved slowly in the kitchen — slower than last time, more deliberate, her hands finding things by memory more than by sight. She soaked the beans Friday night. She put them on at nine AM with a ham hock and an onion. By noon they were creamy and perfect and she ladled them into a bowl and set them in front of me with cornbread and I ate them and they were the best thing I've ever tasted, not because the recipe was different but because the context was — I was a scared man being fed by his mother in a kitchen where being scared was allowed.
I can’t give you Betty’s soup beans — those belong to a Friday-night soak and a nine-AM ham hock and forty years of muscle memory that nobody can write down. But what I can give you is the spirit of what she was doing in that kitchen: something warm, something built around ham, something that doesn’t ask much of you and gives back more than it has any right to. This zucchini ham and rice skillet is the weeknight version of that same instinct — one pan, honest ingredients, and the kind of result that feels like someone was paying attention to you when they cooked it.
Zucchini Ham and Rice Skillet
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 25 minutes | Total Time: 35 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 cup diced cooked ham
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 medium green bell pepper, diced
- 2 medium zucchini, halved lengthwise and sliced into half-moons
- 1 cup long-grain white rice, uncooked
- 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
- 1/2 cup water
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- Salt to taste
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (optional, for serving)
Instructions
- Brown the ham. Heat olive oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the diced ham and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned on the edges, about 3–4 minutes. The browning builds the fond that carries this whole dish.
- Soften the aromatics. Add the diced onion and bell pepper to the skillet. Cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more, until fragrant.
- Toast the rice. Add the uncooked rice directly to the skillet and stir to coat it in the oil and drippings. Let it toast for about 2 minutes — you’ll hear a slight crackle and the grains will turn faintly opaque.
- Add liquid and simmer. Pour in the chicken broth and water. Add the smoked paprika and black pepper. Stir to combine, then bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover tightly, and simmer for 15 minutes.
- Add the zucchini. Uncover the skillet, scatter the zucchini over the top, and re-cover. Cook an additional 5–7 minutes, until the zucchini is just tender and the rice has absorbed the liquid. Do not stir — let the steam do its work.
- Rest and finish. Remove from heat and let the skillet rest, covered, for 3 minutes. Taste for salt, fluff gently with a fork, and scatter parsley over the top if using. Serve directly from the pan.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 310 | Protein: 16g | Fat: 8g | Carbs: 42g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 620mg