Late July. Our birthday approaches again — August 8th, Miya and I, the annual collision of ages. She will be six. I will be thirty-seven. The numbers continue their divergent significance: six is a whole world, a new planet, an age of reading and writing and losing teeth and having opinions about everything. Thirty-seven is a hallway. Thirty-seven is the year between the years, the quiet number between the drama of thirty-five and the anticipation of forty. I am comfortable in hallways. Hallways are where you walk when you know where you are going but have not yet arrived.
I made kakiage — mixed vegetable tempura, the kind where you chop vegetables small and drop them as a cluster into hot oil, creating a lacy, crispy fritter of corn and carrot and onion and shiso. Kakiage is generous — it takes whatever vegetables you have and makes them golden and crispy and communal, a shared appetizer, a party food, a celebration of miscellany. The miscellany is the beauty. The randomness is the art. Fumiko's kakiage was famous at family gatherings — her hands shaping the clusters, the oil sizzling, the apartment filling with the smell of everything fried and nothing specific and the specificity of nothing is, paradoxically, the most specific smell of all: it is the smell of Fumiko cooking. It is the smell of love in hot oil.
I have been planning Miya's birthday party — a bigger one this year, ten children from school and Japanese school, at a park, with bento boxes instead of pizza. Each bento: onigiri, tamagoyaki, edamame, fruit. Ten bento boxes, packed on the morning of the party, in the small kitchen, at five AM, because the packing is the love and the love starts early and the early is the quiet and the quiet is where I do my best work, whether the work is sentences or rice.
Lin is coming to the party. Rachel is coming. The community I have built in two years of being alone is small and real and entirely chosen, not inherited, not obligatory, not the result of proximity but of intention. Every person at that park will be there because I chose them and they chose me and the choosing is the thing that marriage did not teach me: that love is not a contract. Love is a choice, made daily, refreshed constantly, the way miso soup is made daily and refreshed constantly. The freshness is the point.
I made kakiage the week before the party —rsquo; just for us, just for practice, just to feel Fumiko’s hands in mine —rsquo; but the party itself called for something the children could touch and choose and build themselves, something that honored the same spirit: take what you have, put it together, make it golden. A waffle party is kakiage in its soul —rsquo; it is miscellany made beautiful, a table of toppings and batter and possibility where every child walks away with something that is entirely and only theirs. Ten kids at a park with ten different ideas of happiness, and a waffle bar meets every single one of them.
Waffle Party
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 30 min | Total Time: 50 min | Servings: 8–10
Ingredients
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 1 tablespoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 2 large eggs, separated
- 1 3/4 cups whole milk
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- Non-stick cooking spray
- Topping bar suggestions: fresh strawberries, blueberries, sliced bananas, whipped cream, maple syrup, honey, Nutella, peanut butter, powdered sugar, lemon curd, sprinkles, mini chocolate chips
Instructions
- Set up the topping bar. Arrange all desired toppings in small bowls or ramekins on a large table or counter before you begin cooking, so guests can customize as waffles come off the iron.
- Mix the dry ingredients. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt until evenly combined.
- Separate and beat the eggs. Separate the egg yolks from the whites into two bowls. Beat the whites with a hand mixer or whisk until stiff peaks form; set aside. This step is what makes the waffles light and crispy.
- Combine the wet ingredients. Whisk the egg yolks, milk, melted butter, and vanilla together in a medium bowl until smooth.
- Make the batter. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir until just combined — a few lumps are fine. Gently fold in the beaten egg whites in two additions, being careful not to deflate them.
- Preheat the waffle iron. Heat your waffle iron according to manufacturer instructions and coat lightly with non-stick spray before each waffle.
- Cook the waffles. Pour enough batter to fill your waffle iron (typically 3/4 cup for a standard iron). Close the lid and cook until the waffle is deep golden and releases easily, about 4–5 minutes. Repeat with remaining batter, keeping finished waffles warm in a 200°F oven on a wire rack.
- Serve family-style. Bring waffles to the table as they finish and let everyone build their own plate from the topping bar. The beauty is in the choosing.
Nutrition (per serving, waffle only without toppings)
Calories: 260 | Protein: 7g | Fat: 12g | Carbs: 32g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 290mg