Camila's first rehearsal with the El Paso Children's Chorus was on Saturday. She wore the purple dress (it is becoming her performance uniform, the way the apron is Sofia's). She walked into the rehearsal room — thirty children, ages seven to fourteen, a real piano, a real conductor, sheet music on stands — and she didn't hesitate. She walked to her assigned seat and sat down and opened the music and started reading it, which surprised me because I didn't know she could read music, and it turns out she can't — she was pretending, holding the paper and moving her eyes across it the way she'd seen musicians do on YouTube, and the pretending was so convincing that the conductor didn't notice until Camila sang the wrong note and then sang the right note and then looked at the conductor and said, "I learn by listening." She is seven. She learns by listening. That is not a limitation. That is a superpower.
The conductor — a woman named Ms. Torres who has been running the chorus for fifteen years — said after rehearsal: "Your daughter has extraordinary pitch and a natural understanding of harmony that I've rarely seen. She also has opinions about tempo that she shared, loudly, during the Bach piece." She said this with the same diplomatic exhaustion that every adult in Camila's life expresses. The talent is extraordinary. The opinions are also extraordinary. The combination is Camila.
Sofia launched the Thanksgiving menu at the bakery: pumpkin conchas (the viral hit), pecan empanadas, and a special pumpkin-spice tres leches available by pre-order. The pre-orders started coming in on Monday. By Friday we had twelve. Sofia projected twenty by Thanksgiving. I said: "Don't count before they order." She said: "I'm not counting. I'm projecting. There's a difference." She is fourteen and she knows the difference between counting and projecting, and the difference is the difference between a baker and a businesswoman, and Sofia is both.
I made crema de elote this week — Mexican corn soup, creamy and sweet, made with fresh corn blended with cream and topped with crumbled cotija and chile powder. A transitional soup — the last of the corn, the first of the cold, the bridge between summer and winter that the kitchen builds every October with ingredients that are ending and seasons that are beginning. Crema de elote is the soup of change, and change is the only constant in a life that has lost two parents, two Javiers, a son to the Army, and a bakery to a fourteen-year-old girl with a clipboard.
Crema de elote is not always on the shelf when October arrives, and some weeks you cook with what the season offers rather than what the story demands — so when I came home from Camila’s rehearsal and Sofia’s talk of projections and pre-orders, I turned to the squash sitting on the counter instead, and made something that carries the same spirit: a creamy, golden soup that lives exactly on the border between summer’s brightness and winter’s weight. The naan croutons were Sofia’s idea, because of course they were — she said the soup needed texture and structure, and she was right, the way she usually is about things that involve food and commerce.
Vegan Squash Soup with Naan Croutons
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 35 min | Total Time: 50 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 medium butternut squash (about 2 lbs), peeled, seeded, and cubed
- 1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, smashed
- 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
- 3 cups vegetable broth
- 1 can (13.5 oz) full-fat coconut milk
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 piece naan bread (store-bought or homemade), torn into 1-inch pieces
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- Fresh cilantro and a drizzle of coconut milk, for garnish
Instructions
- Roast the squash. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss the squash cubes with 1 tablespoon olive oil, salt, and pepper on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast for 20–25 minutes, turning once, until tender and lightly caramelized at the edges.
- Make the naan croutons. While the squash roasts, toss torn naan pieces with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and the garlic powder. Spread on a separate baking sheet and bake at 400°F for 8–10 minutes, until golden and crispy. Set aside.
- Sauté aromatics. In a large pot over medium heat, warm a thin film of oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5–6 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more until fragrant.
- Build the soup. Add the roasted squash to the pot along with the vegetable broth, cumin, smoked paprika, and cayenne. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 5 minutes to let the flavors come together.
- Blend until smooth. Using an immersion blender (or working in batches with a countertop blender), puree the soup until completely smooth and velvety. Return to low heat.
- Add coconut milk. Stir in the coconut milk and heat through, about 2–3 minutes. Taste and adjust salt, pepper, and cayenne as needed. The soup should be rich, slightly sweet, and gently spiced.
- Serve. Ladle into bowls. Top each bowl with a handful of naan croutons, a few cilantro leaves, and a light drizzle of coconut milk. Serve immediately while the croutons are still crisp.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 320 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 18g | Carbs: 38g | Fiber: 5g | Sodium: 540mg