The watermelon is the size of a football. A FOOTBALL. I measured it with a tape measure because I am a woman who documents her victories, and this watermelon — this stubborn, finally-growing, seven-years-in-the-making watermelon — is twelve inches long and still growing. Mrs. Lucille came by to see it and she said, "Dorothy, that is a fine watermelon." I said, "Mrs. Lucille, that is the finest watermelon in the history of Chatham County and possibly the state of Georgia." She said, "Let's not get carried away." But we both knew. We both knew this watermelon was something.
The garden is in full May glory. Cherokee Purples setting fruit everywhere — twelve plants, each one loaded, the cages straining under the weight of what's coming. The Sapelo peppers are turning — some green, some red, the seventh generation keeping faith with the six that came before. The okra is knee-high and climbing. The butter beans are flowering. And in the sunny corner, guarded by my pride and Mrs. Lucille's advice and a daily conversation that ranges from encouragement to threats, the watermelon grows.
I've been thinking about patience. Real patience, not the polite waiting kind but the deep, gardening kind — the patience that puts a seed in dirt and believes, without evidence, that something will happen. The watermelon took seven years. Seven years of failure and one year of growth. If I had quit after year three, or year five, or year six, I would never have known what year seven held. But I didn't quit. Because Dot Henderson doesn't quit. Dot Henderson plants the seed again. Dot Henderson talks to the watermelon. Dot Henderson believes in year seven because she has survived enough years to know that the good ones are worth the bad ones, and the fruit — literal, metaphorical, edible — is always worth the wait.
Kayla brought Devon for dinner Sunday. He ate three helpings of greens and then asked if he could have the collard greens recipe. I said, "Devon, that recipe is in my head. It's not written down." He said, "Can you write it down for me?" I said, "Baby, I can't write it down because it's not a recipe. It's a feeling. You add the salt until it tastes like my mother's kitchen. You add the vinegar until it smells like a Sunday you can't remember but your body can. You cook it until the greens tell you they're done. That's the recipe." He looked at Kayla. Kayla said, "You get used to it."
Now go on and feed somebody.
Devon asked for the collard greens recipe and I told him the truth — it lives in my hands, not on paper. But those Cherokee Purples out there, twelve plants straining under the weight of what’s coming, those I can give him something for. When the garden is this generous, the most respectful thing you can do is keep it simple — and a tomato galette is exactly that: a pastry that gets out of the way and lets a good tomato be a good tomato. I made one last week with the first few that ripened off early, and I thought, yes, this is the one. This is what you bring when the garden finally delivers.
Tomato Galette
Prep Time: 25 minutes | Cook Time: 40 minutes | Total Time: 1 hour 5 minutes | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for drawing out tomato moisture
- 1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cubed
- 3–4 tablespoons ice water
- 1 1/2 pounds ripe heirloom tomatoes (Cherokee Purple or similar), sliced 1/4 inch thick
- 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
- 1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta
- 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for drizzling
- 1 egg, beaten (for egg wash)
- Fresh basil, for serving
- Flaky sea salt and cracked black pepper, to finish
Instructions
- Salt the tomatoes. Arrange tomato slices in a single layer on a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with salt and let sit 20–30 minutes. Pat dry thoroughly. This step is not optional — wet tomatoes make a soggy galette.
- Make the dough. In a large bowl, whisk together flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add cold butter and work it in with your fingers or a pastry cutter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces remaining. Add ice water one tablespoon at a time, mixing just until the dough comes together. Flatten into a disk, wrap, and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.
- Prepare the filling. Stir together ricotta, Parmesan, garlic, olive oil, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper.
- Roll and fill. Preheat oven to 400°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a rough 12-inch circle. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Spread the ricotta mixture over the center, leaving a 2-inch border. Arrange tomato slices over the cheese, overlapping slightly.
- Fold and seal. Fold the edges of the dough up and over the outer ring of tomatoes, pleating as you go. Brush the crust with egg wash. Drizzle the tomatoes lightly with olive oil and finish with a pinch of flaky salt and cracked pepper.
- Bake. Bake 35–42 minutes, until the crust is deep golden and the tomatoes have caramelized at the edges. Let cool at least 10 minutes before slicing — the filling needs time to set. Top with fresh basil just before serving.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 310 | Protein: 8g | Fat: 19g | Carbs: 27g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 380mg