By August. The heat is at its worst. Houston exists in a state of thermal punishment from June through September, and August is the month when even native Texans start questioning their life choices. I smoked a brisket at 4 AM Saturday because by 10 AM the temperature was 103 and the smoker was an oven inside an oven inside a sauna. I wore shorts and flip-flops and drank four La Croixs before noon. This is survival smoking. It is not glamorous.
Met Jessica's parents this week. They drove to Houston from Katy (she grew up there, which means she's a Houston-area girl, which pleases me) for a dinner at my house. Her father, a retired school administrator named Glen, shook my hand and said, "Tyler talks about your brisket more than he talks about anything." I said, "That's appropriate." Glen laughed. He's tall, affable, the kind of Texan who says "sir" and means it. Her mother, Patricia, is quieter — a retired teacher with sharp eyes that miss nothing. She reminded me of Mai in a way I couldn't immediately articulate but felt instinctively.
I cooked the full spread: brisket, spring rolls, pho, the smoked queso. I wanted them to eat the history of this family in one meal. Glen ate three plates and said, "Son, this is the best brisket I've had in my life." I said, "It's the fish sauce." He said, "I don't care what it is. Don't ever stop." Patricia tried the pho and was quiet for a moment and then said, "This is beautiful." I said, "My mother's recipe." She said, "Tell her it's beautiful." I said I would.
The evening went well. Tyler and Jessica sat on the porch while the four parents talked inside. I glanced out the window at one point and saw Tyler had his arm around her and they were looking at the smoker and I knew — with the certainty of a man who has spent forty-nine years learning to read people — that my son had found his person. Not someone who completes him. Someone who stands next to him. That's better. That's the real thing.
I cooked serious food that night — the brisket, the pho, the spring rolls — but if I’m honest, it was the tacos on a stick that got Glen laughing and loosened the whole evening into something real. There’s something about food you eat off a skewer that strips away the formality, and formality was the last thing I wanted with these people who are becoming family. Patricia smiled for the first time — a real smile, not a polite one — when she picked one up. That’s the recipe I want to remember from that night.
Tacos on a Stick
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 15 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 lbs ground beef (80/20)
- 1 packet (1 oz) taco seasoning
- 1/3 cup water
- 1 cup shredded Mexican blend cheese
- 1 cup cherry tomatoes
- 1 cup small bell pepper chunks (red and green)
- 1/2 cup red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 12 small flour tortillas (street taco size)
- 12 wooden skewers, soaked in water 30 minutes
- Sour cream, salsa, and guacamole for serving
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- Cook the beef. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, brown the ground beef, breaking it up as it cooks, about 7–8 minutes. Drain excess fat. Add taco seasoning and water, stir well, and simmer 3 minutes until thickened. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.
- Prep the vegetables. Toss cherry tomatoes, bell pepper chunks, and red onion pieces with olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. Set aside.
- Assemble the tortilla rolls. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the seasoned beef down the center of each small tortilla. Sprinkle with shredded cheese. Roll the tortilla tightly around the filling, then thread onto a skewer. Push a folded tortilla roll onto each skewer, alternating with pieces of tomato, bell pepper, and onion.
- Grill or broil. Heat a grill or grill pan to medium-high. Brush the assembled skewers lightly with olive oil. Cook 2–3 minutes per side, turning once, until the tortillas are golden and lightly charred and the vegetables are tender with a slight char. Alternatively, broil on a foil-lined baking sheet 4 inches from the broiler for 3–4 minutes per side.
- Serve immediately. Arrange skewers on a large platter. Set out sour cream, salsa, and guacamole alongside for dipping. Serve hot while the tortillas are still crisp at the edges.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 26g | Fat: 18g | Carbs: 38g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 680mg