Sweet Potato and Apple Cake

Thanksgiving. The whole family under the farmhouse roof: Helen and me, David and Karen with Teddy (7), Anna (4), and James (15 months), Sarah and Tom with Ben (3) and Lucy (8 months). Twelve people, five of them under eight, one dog hiding under the bed, and a clipboard that was consulted nine times before noon.

The turkey was magnificent. Twenty-two pounds of brined, buttered, herbed perfection that I roasted at 325 for four and a half hours, basting every forty-five minutes, checking the thermometer with the nervous frequency of a man who has been trusted with the centerpiece and understands the stakes. Helen's recipe card sat on the counter: "If Walt is making this, remind him to take the bag of giblets out first." I checked the cavity. Twice. The giblets were out. I have not forgotten the giblets since year one, and I will not forget them for the rest of my natural life.

The sides: my mashed potatoes (five pounds, butter, cream, the right amount of salt, which is more than you think). Helen's stuffing — made outside the bird, because Helen is a nurse and food safety is not negotiable. Karen's green bean casserole, which she makes with fresh beans and homemade mushroom sauce, not the canned stuff. Sarah's cranberry sauce (she adopted my recipe). The rolls were store-bought, which Helen considers a personal failure and I consider a rational allocation of oven space.

Sarah's apple pie. She's getting better every year — the crust was flaky, the apples were spiced just right, the lattice top was golden. I told her it was as good as Helen's. Helen heard me. She did not disagree, which from Helen is equivalent to a standing ovation and a key to the city.

After dinner: the slow collapse of a family into contentment. David and I washed dishes while the women sat with coffee and the children destroyed the living room in ways that were mostly reversible. James fell asleep on the floor. Lucy fell asleep on Sarah's chest. Teddy read a book in the corner. Anna drew a picture of the turkey that looked like a brown cloud with drumsticks. Ben told me about a dragon he'd invented, in a story with no beginning and no end but considerable enthusiasm in the middle.

Helen watched the table. She does this — she sits and watches, taking inventory, counting blessings the way she used to count patients. I caught her eye across the room. She smiled. The small one. The one that's just for me. The one that says: we built this. All of this. From a church supper in Shelburne to a table of twelve. We built this.

Thanksgiving. The turkey was good. The pie was better. The people were best. Check.

Sarah’s apple pie stole the show that Thanksgiving, and I’ve been thinking about it ever since — the way good apples and warm spices can hold a whole room quiet for a few seconds. This sweet potato and apple cake is what came out of that thinking: two Thanksgiving flavors that belong together, baked into something you can set on the table and watch twelve people go still. It’s not Helen’s pie and it’s not Sarah’s, but it’s in the family now.

Prep Time: 25 minutes | Cook Time: 55 minutes | Total Time: 1 hour 20 minutes | Servings: 12

Ingredients

2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 cup mashed sweet potato (about 1 large, roasted and cooled)
3/4 cup vegetable oil
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
4 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled and diced (about 2 cups)
1 cup chopped pecans
For the glaze:
1 cup powdered sugar
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1-2 tablespoons milk

Instructions

Preheat and prepare. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 9x13-inch baking pan or a 10-inch Bundt pan.
Mix the dry ingredients. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. Set aside.
Combine the wet ingredients. In a large bowl, whisk together the mashed sweet potato, vegetable oil, granulated sugar, brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla until smooth.
Bring it together. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and stir until just combined — don’t overmix. Fold in the diced apples and pecans.
Bake. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50-55 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely.
Make the maple glaze. Whisk together the powdered sugar, maple syrup, and 1 tablespoon of milk. Add more milk a few drops at a time until you reach a drizzling consistency.
Finish. Drizzle the glaze over the cooled cake. Let set for 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

Nutrition (per serving)

Sweet Potato and Apple Cake — Because the Pie Was Better Than the Turkey, and Helen Didn’t Disagree