An ordinary week. The kind of week that I have learned to cherish because the extraordinary weeks exhaust and the ordinary weeks restore. Monday: closed, family day, burgers at the altar, Fuego in the yard, Diego filming Fuego with his laptop camera, Sofia reading a culinary textbook on the patio. Tuesday through Saturday: the restaurant. 271, 264, 278, 291, 318 customers. The Saturday birria sellout: 12:47 PM (the time is tracked, the time is a metric, the time is the measure of how hungry Phoenix is for birria tacos and the answer is: very). Sunday: Maryvale. Roberto at the grill for ten minutes. Ten minutes of carne asada. The number shrinks. The love does not.
Roberto's routine has settled into a pattern that I track the way I track the brisket consistency and the birria sellout time — with attention, with concern, with the quiet hope that the numbers hold. He comes to Rivera's Tuesday and Saturday now — down from three times a week. He sits at the counter for three hours instead of five. He eats one plate instead of two. He reads the newspaper more slowly. Gerald sits beside him on Tuesdays and the two of them — the first customer and the founder, the schoolteacher and the mechanic — read the newspaper in silence and eat brisket and exist in the comfortable fellowship of men who do not need to speak to be together.
The Chandler build-out began this week. Construction crews, the same contractor who built the Mesa expansion, the same architect, the same plans adapted for the new space. The open kitchen facing the street. The glass partition. The community table (Gabriel's younger sister, the mesquite table from the 150-year-old tree, arriving in November). The smoker — a new 600-gallon offset, bigger than the 500-gallon at Mesa, smaller than the 800-gallon original. The Goldilocks smoker. The smoker that is just right for a second location that will be its own thing — not a copy of Mesa, but a sibling. The same fire, different hands.
Tomás is training his replacement at Mesa — a sous chef named Dante, recruited from a BBQ restaurant in Tucson, who makes brisket that scored 95 on The Manual's scale on his first day and who Tomás describes as "a natural." Dante is twenty-eight, formally trained, passionate about live-fire cooking. He will learn from Maria. He will learn from the 800-gallon. He will learn from the community table and the customers and the regulars who have been eating at Rivera's for three years. The learning never stops. The fire always teaches.
The ordinary weeks are the ones that actually feed you — not just the customers, but me, the family, the whole operation. After watching Roberto settle into his quieter Tuesday routine, Gerald beside him, both of them asking for nothing more than brisket and a newspaper and each other’s company, I wanted to cook something at home that had that same honest simplicity: a burrito packed with sweet peppers, nothing complicated, nothing proving anything. Some food doesn’t need to be a statement. It just needs to be good and warm and ready when you sit down.
Sweet Pepper Burritos
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 4 large flour tortillas (10-inch)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 3 sweet bell peppers (mixed colors), sliced into thin strips
- 1 medium yellow onion, sliced thin
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 can (15 oz) black beans, drained and rinsed
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 cup cooked long-grain white rice
- 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese
- 1/2 cup sour cream
- 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
- 1 lime, cut into wedges
Instructions
- Sauté the peppers and onion. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sliced bell peppers and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes until softened and beginning to caramelize at the edges.
- Add garlic and spices. Add the minced garlic, cumin, smoked paprika, chili powder, salt, and black pepper to the skillet. Stir to coat and cook for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant.
- Warm the beans. Add the drained black beans to the skillet and stir to combine with the pepper mixture. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the beans are heated through. Taste and adjust salt as needed.
- Warm the tortillas. Wrap the flour tortillas in a damp paper towel and microwave for 30 to 45 seconds, or warm them one at a time in a dry skillet over medium heat for about 30 seconds per side until pliable.
- Assemble the burritos. Lay each tortilla flat. Spoon 1/4 cup of rice down the center, followed by a generous portion of the pepper-bean mixture. Top with shredded Monterey Jack cheese and a dollop of sour cream. Scatter fresh cilantro over the top.
- Fold and serve. Fold in the sides of the tortilla, then roll from the bottom up into a tight burrito. Serve immediately with lime wedges on the side for squeezing over the top.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 520 | Protein: 19g | Fat: 18g | Carbs: 72g | Fiber: 9g | Sodium: 680mg