New Year's Eve 2030 into 2031. Noah made the black-eyed peas with lemon added this year — a new development that elevated the dish. He said he'd been inspired by a Southern chef he'd interviewed for an article about soul food traditions. The lemon was exactly right. Everyone said so. He said, "I'm going to do it this way from now on." I said, "Archive it." He said, "Already done."
The second decade of the century ends. I think about the decade: it began with the pandemic and all its distortions, and it ends with two grandchildren (one here, one weeks away), four books written, two children's restaurants open, a daughter in policy work, a son in food journalism school, Gary and me in this kitchen, still cooking, still walking on Fridays. The decade that took more than I expected and gave more than I could have planned.
Gary stood at the window at midnight and I stood beside him and we watched the neighborhood fireworks from the kitchen window, which is where we've watched them for thirty years. He said, "Thirty years ago you and I were both in different places." I said, "Twenty-six years ago we were in this kitchen for the first time." He said, "That's when time started." I said, "I know." I've always thought that too.
Henry will arrive in January. The decade turns. The kitchen is lit and warm and the potato salad is in the refrigerator for tomorrow's New Year's Day lunch because some habits are so deep they operate without planning.
Noah’s instinct to archive the lemon black-eyed peas the moment he knew he’d found the right version reminded me that that’s exactly what we do with food that earns its place — we write it down, we commit to it, we make it part of the rhythm of the years. This spinach stuffed pork tenderloin is one of those recipes for us: the kind of thing that looks like a special occasion but feels, after enough New Year’s Days, like an old friend waiting in the refrigerator beside the potato salad, already belonging to the kitchen before you’ve even started cooking.
Spinach Stuffed Pork Tenderloin
Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 30 minutes | Total Time: 50 minutes | Servings: 4–6
Ingredients
- 2 pork tenderloins (about 1 lb each), trimmed
- 3 cups fresh baby spinach, roughly chopped
- 4 oz cream cheese, softened
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes, drained and chopped
- 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
- 1 teaspoon dried Italian seasoning
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
- 1 teaspoon black pepper, divided
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- Kitchen twine, for tying
Instructions
- Preheat and prepare. Preheat your oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan with foil and set aside.
- Make the filling. In a medium bowl, stir together the cream cheese, garlic, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, Parmesan, Italian seasoning, red pepper flakes (if using), 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper until well combined.
- Butterfly the tenderloins. Using a sharp knife, cut each tenderloin lengthwise down the center, stopping about 1/2 inch from the bottom so it opens like a book. Cover with plastic wrap and gently pound to an even 1/2-inch thickness.
- Stuff and roll. Spread half the spinach filling evenly over each opened tenderloin, leaving a 1/2-inch border on all sides. Roll each tenderloin tightly lengthwise and tie at 2-inch intervals with kitchen twine to hold its shape.
- Season the exterior. Rub each rolled tenderloin all over with olive oil, then season with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.
- Sear for color. Heat an oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the tenderloins on all sides until golden brown, about 2–3 minutes per side.
- Roast to finish. Transfer the skillet (or move tenderloins to the prepared pan) to the oven. Roast for 18–22 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part reads 145°F.
- Rest and slice. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5–8 minutes. Remove twine, slice into medallions, and serve.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 310 | Protein: 36g | Fat: 15g | Carbs: 5g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 620mg