Mid-November. Thanksgiving week. This year: a gathering again. Lin, Rachel, and their children. Plus a new friend from the yoga studio — a woman named Marie who is also divorced, also a writer (she blogs about plant-based cooking), also finding her way through the aftermath of a marriage into a life that is hers. The gathering of women at my table is becoming a tradition. The tradition is only two years old but it feels older, because the need is older, because women have always gathered in kitchens to eat and talk and survive.
The menu: miso-butter turkey breast (my signature now, the dish people request, the recipe that will be in the book), kabocha nimono, the delicata squash with pecans and cranberries, rice, a big green salad, and Lin's contribution: a Korean braised short rib that melts on the tongue. The table was full. The apartment was full. Six adults and four children in a one-bedroom apartment is too many people and exactly the right number. The too-many-ness was the abundance. The abundance was the point.
After dinner, after the children were asleep in Miya's room in a pile of blankets and stuffed animals, the women sat at the table with wine (me: tea) and talked until midnight. We talked about divorce and writing and children and the specific freedom of a life chosen rather than defaulted into. Marie said, "I spent my marriage being someone else's wife. Now I'm someone's me." The sentence sat at the table like an extra guest, beautiful and true and exactly the kind of thing that only gets said at midnight at a table full of women who have all survived something and are all still here.
I cleaned the kitchen at one AM, alone, the apartment quiet except for the breathing of sleeping children. I washed Fumiko's ceramic bowls by hand, carefully, the way I always wash them, and I set them on the drying rack and I stood in the kitchen and I said: "This is the life, Obaachan. This is the life I built." The kitchen was dark. The bowls were clean. The life was full. Full in the way that matters: not full of stuff, but full of people who chose to be here, and food that was made with love, and a table that held them all.
The kabocha nimono was the quiet center of that Thanksgiving table — squash braised until it gave way completely, sweet and soft and deeply savory, the kind of dish that doesn’t announce itself but holds everything together. That’s what I want in a recipe for the week after a gathering like that one: something that asks for patience and returns abundance. These spaghetti squash boats are my weeknight version of that spirit — a whole squash, filled and roasted, a meal that feels like a bowl and a hug at once, the kind of thing I make when I want to keep the warmth of that midnight table going just a little longer.
Spaghetti Squash Boats
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 50 min | Total Time: 1 hr 5 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 2 medium spaghetti squash (about 2 lbs each), halved lengthwise and seeds removed
- 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 lb ground turkey or Italian sausage (casings removed)
- 1 small yellow onion, diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 can (14 oz) diced tomatoes, drained
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
- 1 cup baby spinach, roughly chopped
- 3/4 cup shredded mozzarella or Parmesan, divided
- Fresh basil or parsley, for serving
Instructions
- Roast the squash. Preheat oven to 400°F. Brush the cut sides of each squash half with 1 tablespoon olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and place cut-side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast for 35–40 minutes, until the flesh is tender and easily pierced with a fork.
- Cook the filling. While the squash roasts, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Add the ground turkey or sausage and cook, breaking it up, until browned and cooked through, about 6 minutes. Drain any excess fat.
- Build the sauce. Stir the drained diced tomatoes, oregano, and red pepper flakes into the skillet. Simmer for 5 minutes until slightly reduced. Add the spinach and stir until just wilted. Taste and adjust seasoning.
- Shred and fill. Flip the roasted squash halves cut-side up. Use a fork to gently scrape and loosen the strands, leaving them in the shell. Season the strands lightly with salt. Spoon the filling evenly into each squash half and mix lightly with the strands. Top each boat with the shredded cheese.
- Broil to finish. Switch the oven to broil. Return the filled squash boats to the oven and broil for 3–5 minutes, watching closely, until the cheese is melted, bubbly, and golden in spots.
- Serve. Scatter fresh basil or parsley over the top and serve directly from the shells, with extra red pepper flakes on the side.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 380 | Protein: 28g | Fat: 18g | Carbs: 30g | Fiber: 6g | Sodium: 520mg