By April 2024. Spring in Memphis, and I am 65, watching the azaleas and dogwoods bloom along my neighborhood walk, the annual resurrection that makes the winter worth surviving. The smoker wakes up in spring the way the whole city wakes up — slowly, with a stretch, then fully, with purpose.
Walter Jr. came by with the grandchildren, bringing the noise and energy that grandchildren bring, the house expanding to hold them the way a good pot expands to hold a good stew. Trey at the smoker, learning, absorbing, his hands getting steadier each visit, the fire recognizing him the way fire recognizes those who are meant to tend it.
Smoked turkey wings this week — big, meaty, brined and rubbed and smoked at 275 for three hours until the skin crackled and the meat pulled clean. Turkey wings are the working class of BBQ: cheap, underrated, and transformed by smoke into something extraordinary. Uncle Clyde served them on Fridays at his stand, and I serve them on Saturdays in my backyard, and the tradition bridges the gap between then and now.
Sunday at Mt. Zion, the choir sang and I sat in my pew and let the music hold me. The bass notes I used to add are quieter now — my voice is aging, the way everything ages — but the listening is its own participation, and the church holds me the way the church has held this community for a hundred years: faithfully, unconditionally, with room for everyone who shows up. I show up. That is enough.
The turkey wings were Saturday’s gift to the smoke and the tradition, but Sunday after church the grandchildren wanted something fast and loud and satisfying — the kind of food that matches their energy. I’ve learned not to fight that. A smash burger on a cast iron, pressed hard and seared until the edges go crisp and lacey, is its own kind of backyard ceremony: quick, honest, and never once disappointing. Trey pressed the first one himself, and the sizzle that came off that griddle was its own kind of music — different from the choir, but joyful in the same way.
Smash Burgers
Prep Time: 10 min | Cook Time: 15 min | Total Time: 25 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 lbs 80/20 ground beef, divided into 6 loosely packed 4-oz balls
- 6 slices American cheese
- 6 soft potato buns, toasted
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 1 tsp coarse black pepper
- 1/2 tsp garlic powder
- 2 tbsp unsalted butter, for the griddle
- 1/4 cup mayonnaise
- 2 tbsp yellow mustard
- 2 tbsp ketchup
- 1 tbsp dill pickle brine
- 1 cup shredded iceberg lettuce
- 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced
- Dill pickle slices, to serve
Instructions
- Make the sauce. Stir together the mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup, and pickle brine in a small bowl. Refrigerate until ready to use.
- Prep the beef. Divide the ground beef into 6 loosely packed balls — do not overwork the meat. Season the outside of each ball generously with salt, pepper, and garlic powder.
- Heat the griddle. Place a cast iron skillet or flat griddle over high heat until smoking hot. Add the butter and swirl to coat.
- Smash the burgers. Place 2–3 beef balls on the griddle, spacing them apart. Using a heavy spatula or burger press, press each ball firmly and flat to about 1/4-inch thickness. Hold firm pressure for 10 seconds. Season the tops lightly with additional salt and pepper.
- Sear and crust. Let the patties cook undisturbed for 2 to 2 1/2 minutes until the edges are deeply browned and lacy. Do not press again after the initial smash.
- Melt the cheese. Flip each patty and immediately lay a slice of American cheese on top. Cook 1 additional minute until the cheese melts and the second side picks up color. Repeat with remaining patties.
- Toast the buns. Place the buns cut-side down in the residual fat on the griddle for 30–60 seconds until golden.
- Build the burgers. Spread the sauce on both halves of each toasted bun. Stack one or two patties on the bottom bun, then top with sliced onion, shredded lettuce, and pickle slices. Close and serve immediately.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 620 | Protein: 36g | Fat: 38g | Carbs: 32g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 890mg