Build-out week one. The restaurant exists as a space and a dream and a lease payment. Turning it into something real requires more work than I anticipated, which is what everyone who's ever opened a restaurant says.
Tyler and I spent Saturday demolishing the old Thai restaurant's interior — ripping out the tired carpet, pulling down the dated wallpaper, removing the bar countertop that was stained beyond redemption. Tyler worked with the focus of an automotive student who's been taking things apart his whole life. By 6 PM we'd stripped the dining room to bare walls and concrete floor.
The kitchen is in better shape — the equipment is functional, mostly. I'm supplementing from my own company's inventory: a flat-top griddle (my cost), a prep table (my cost), a rice cooker large enough to serve sixty people (retail: $800, my cost: $340). The employee discount that funded twenty years of home cooking is now funding a restaurant.
Emma drew the kitchen layout. She measured every wall, every fixture, every doorway, and produced a floor plan that would make an architect proud. The stations: smoker window (customers see the smoker through a pass-through to the parking lot), pho station (two thirty-quart stockpots, a noodle blanching setup, a garnish rail), grill station (the flat-top for bo luc lac and grilled meats), prep station (the heart of the kitchen, where spring rolls are made), dessert station (Emma's domain).
Lily has been designing the menu — not the food, the physical menu. She's chosen a font, a color scheme (red and black, naturally), and a layout that's clean and easy to read. The menu items are organized by tradition: "From the Smoker" (brisket, ribs, sausage), "From the Pot" (pho, bo kho, canh chua), "From the Grill" (bo luc lac, thit nuong, ga nuong), "From Ma's Hands" (spring rolls, banh cuon), and "From Emma's Kitchen" (desserts).
"From Ma's Hands." That's a menu section. My mother's cooking, named and honored on a menu that will hang in a restaurant that bears my name. She doesn't know about this yet. She'll see it on opening day.
The February pop-up is Saturday. Pop-up number six. Sold out. Two hundred covers. The last pop-up before the restaurant build-out consumes all my time.
The February pop-up went fine. Great, actually. $5,500. But my mind was already in the restaurant — counting tables, planning plating, imagining what the room will look like with people in it.
Two months to opening. The clock is running.
Emma’s floor plan has the pho station mapped out with two thirty-quart stockpots and a noodle blanching rack — but that station won’t be operational for two more months, and a family running on construction debris and adrenaline still needs to eat. On the nights we came home from the build-out with concrete dust on our clothes and cabinet hardware in our pockets, I leaned on the slow cooker: set it before we left, eat when we got back. These Thai peanut noodles became the unofficial dish of build-out week one — a little smoky, a little rich, unmistakably Southeast Asian — the kind of bowl that reminds you exactly why you’re tearing up perfectly good carpet to build something new.
Slow-Cooker Thai Peanut Noodles
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 4 hrs | Total Time: 4 hrs 15 min | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 1 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed
- 1 cup chicken broth
- 1/2 cup creamy peanut butter
- 1/4 cup soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
- 2 tablespoons honey
- 1 tablespoon sesame oil
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
- 8 oz rice noodles or lo mein noodles
- 1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
- 2 cups shredded red cabbage
- 3 green onions, sliced
- 1/4 cup chopped roasted peanuts, for garnish
- Fresh cilantro and lime wedges, for serving
Instructions
- Build the sauce. In the slow cooker, whisk together chicken broth, peanut butter, soy sauce, rice vinegar, honey, sesame oil, garlic, ginger, and red pepper flakes until smooth and well combined.
- Add the chicken. Nestle the chicken thighs into the sauce, turning to coat. Cover and cook on LOW for 3 1/2 to 4 hours, or on HIGH for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until the chicken is cooked through and tender.
- Shred the chicken. Remove the chicken thighs and shred them using two forks. Return the shredded meat to the slow cooker and stir to combine with the sauce.
- Cook the noodles. About 20 minutes before serving, cook the noodles according to package directions until just tender. Drain and rinse briefly with cool water to stop cooking.
- Combine and warm. Add the cooked noodles and sliced red bell pepper to the slow cooker. Stir gently to coat everything in the sauce. Cover and cook on HIGH for 10 to 15 minutes until the peppers soften slightly and the noodles are warmed through.
- Serve. Divide among bowls and top with shredded red cabbage, green onions, chopped roasted peanuts, and fresh cilantro. Serve with lime wedges on the side.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 430 | Protein: 28g | Fat: 17g | Carbs: 44g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 720mg
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 203 of Bobby’s 30-year story
· Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.