By Thanksgiving at the Donovans'. This has not been a question since before I was old enough to have an opinion about it. Even in years when I was technically an adult living separately and theoretically capable of going somewhere else, this was never a real option because Maureen starts cooking on Tuesday and the universe bends toward the three-decker on East Broadway the way the universe bends toward any strong gravitational mass. We are all in orbit around Maureen's Thanksgiving table.
This year: me and Sean D., Sean Sr. and Maureen, Patrick and his girlfriend Colleen and their two kids, Meghan and her husband Brian and their son Aidan — who is one year old and spent the entire meal being charming and throwing pieces of dinner roll at Brian's head, which Brian accepted with the patience of a man who has found his people. Danny called from New London at two o'clock and we passed the phone around the table. He described his Coast Guard barracks Thanksgiving meal as "fine, actually," and we did not entirely believe him but we let him have it.
Maureen made everything. Turkey — not a fancy brine situation, just a well-seasoned bird that comes out perfect every year because Maureen simply refuses to let turkeys be difficult. Mashed potatoes. Stuffing with sage and onion and the giblets. Green bean casserole, which Maureen considers slightly below her standards but which Sean Sr. requires. Cranberry sauce from scratch with fresh cranberries and orange zest. Pumpkin pie from the same recipe since before I was born.
Sean D. helped set the table, brought wine, and endeared himself to Sean Sr. by understanding the football hierarchy — you watch what Sean Sr. wants to watch and you make occasional comments that indicate you are paying attention. I watched Sean D. figure this out in real time and loved him for it. He is going to be very good at being a Donovan.
Watching Sean D. quietly read the room and fall into step with our family’s rhythms — the football rules, the table setting, the easy way he laughed at Sean Sr.’s jokes — made me want to do something that felt like home in my hands. Maureen’s mashed potatoes have always been the dish I associate most with belonging, so this year I made them my own way: slow cooker, browned butter, the whole thing. Here’s how I did it.
Slow Cooker Browned Butter Mashed Potatoes
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 4 hours | Total Time: 4 hours 20 min | Servings: 10–12
Ingredients
- 5 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
- 1 cup chicken broth (or water)
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
- 1 cup sour cream, room temperature
- 1/2 to 3/4 cup whole milk or heavy cream, warmed
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder (optional)
- Fresh chives or parsley, for garnish (optional)
Instructions
- Load the slow cooker. Place the peeled, chunked potatoes into a 6-quart slow cooker. Pour in the chicken broth and season with 1 teaspoon salt and the black pepper. Cover and cook on HIGH for 3 1/2 to 4 hours, or until the potatoes are completely tender and fall apart when pierced with a fork.
- Brown the butter. About 15 minutes before the potatoes are done, melt the butter in a small light-colored saucepan over medium heat. Swirl occasionally and cook until the foam subsides and the milk solids turn golden brown and smell nutty, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat immediately and set aside.
- Drain and mash. Carefully drain any remaining liquid from the slow cooker. Mash the potatoes directly in the insert using a potato masher or hand mixer until smooth and lump-free.
- Add the dairy. Fold in the sour cream and pour in the browned butter, scraping all the toasty bits from the pan—those bits are flavor. Stir in the warmed milk or cream a little at a time until the potatoes reach your preferred consistency. Taste and adjust salt as needed. Add garlic powder if using.
- Keep warm and serve. Switch the slow cooker to WARM. The potatoes will hold for up to 2 hours, giving you full oven freedom for the turkey. Give them a stir before serving and garnish with chives or parsley if desired.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 285 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 13g | Carbs: 38g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 210mg