Luis Jr. turns seventeen on November 18. The party was small — family, Carmen, a few of his friends from school. He wanted carne asada, because Luis Jr. always wants carne asada, because carne asada is the food of boys becoming men, the food of fire and smoke and the patient turning of meat over coals. Luis grilled. Luis Jr. stood next to him. They didn't talk much. They turned the meat. They drank sodas. They were father and son at a grill and the simplicity of it was holy.
I gave him a watch. Not expensive — forty dollars, from a department store — but a real watch, a man's watch, with a metal band and a face that glows in the dark. I said: "For when you can't have your phone." He knew what I meant. The Army. No phones in basic training. No screens, no scrolling, no Instagram. Just a boy and a watch and the time he has to get through. He put the watch on and it was too big — his wrist is not yet a man's wrist — and I thought: it will fit. Give him a year. Give him push-ups and pull-ups and whatever the Army feeds him. The wrist will grow. The watch will fit. The boy will become the man who fills the watch.
Sofia presented me with a business plan. A business plan. She is twelve and she wrote a business plan for expanding the bakery's catering services. It was three pages long, handwritten, with sections labeled "Market Analysis," "Revenue Projections," and "Competitive Advantages." Under Competitive Advantages she wrote: "We have Abuela Rosa's recipes and nobody else does." I read it. I read it again. I put it in the bakery office next to the framed article and the framed naturalization certificate. It belongs there. It is part of the story now.
I made barbacoa again this week, for Luis Jr.'s birthday, because barbacoa is celebration food and seventeen is a celebration even though it is also a countdown. The beef cheeks braised for six hours in the banana leaves, falling apart, tender, smoky, rich. We ate it in tacos with cilantro and onion and lime, the way barbacoa is meant to be eaten — with your hands, with no pretense, with the juice running down your wrist and a tortilla catching the drips. Luis Jr. ate six tacos. I counted. A mother counts.
Camila sang "Happy Birthday" to Luis Jr. in a three-part harmony she invented on the spot, which means she sang the same song three times in a row in slightly different keys and called it harmony. Luis Jr. said, "Thanks, Camila." She said, "You're welcome. That was three songs. You owe me three wishes." He said, "That's not how it works." She said, "It is now." She is five and she has restructured the economics of birthday singing and I have no rebuttal.
Barbacoa has always been my celebration food — the kind of meal that says this moment matters without needing to announce it. I’ve made it with beef cheeks when I can find them, banana leaves when I have them, but the heart of it is always the same: low heat, long time, beef that falls apart like it was always meant to. This slow cooker version gives you that same deep, smoky tenderness without standing over a pot for six hours — which means you can watch your son stand next to his father at the grill, count how many tacos he eats, and still have something worth making again next year.
Slow Cooker Barbacoa Short Rib Tacos
Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 8 hours | Total Time: 8 hours 20 minutes | Servings: 8 (about 16–18 tacos)
Ingredients
- 3 lbs bone-in beef short ribs (or 2.5 lbs boneless)
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1 teaspoon black pepper
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano (Mexican oregano preferred)
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
- 4 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, roughly chopped
- 2 tablespoons adobo sauce (from the can)
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 white onion, quartered (half for braising, half reserved for serving)
- 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
- 1/4 cup fresh lime juice (about 2 limes), plus lime wedges for serving
- 1/2 cup beef broth
- 2 dried bay leaves
- 16–18 small corn tortillas, warmed
- 1 bunch fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
- 1/2 white onion, finely diced (reserved for serving)
- Salsa verde or your favorite hot sauce, for serving
Instructions
- Season the beef. Pat the short ribs dry with paper towels. In a small bowl, combine the salt, pepper, cumin, smoked paprika, oregano, and cloves. Rub the spice mixture all over the ribs on all sides.
- Sear for depth. Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet or cast iron pan over medium-high heat. Sear the short ribs in batches, 2–3 minutes per side, until a deep brown crust forms. Do not crowd the pan. Transfer the seared ribs to the slow cooker insert.
- Build the braise. In a blender or food processor, combine the chipotle peppers, adobo sauce, garlic, quartered onion half, apple cider vinegar, lime juice, and beef broth. Blend until smooth. Pour the mixture over the ribs in the slow cooker. Add the bay leaves.
- Low and slow. Cover and cook on LOW for 8 hours, or on HIGH for 5–6 hours, until the beef is completely tender and falling off the bone.
- Shred the beef. Remove the ribs from the slow cooker. Discard the bones and bay leaves. Use two forks to shred the meat into pieces. Return the shredded beef to the slow cooker and stir to coat it in the braising liquid. Taste and adjust salt as needed. Let it rest in the liquid on the WARM setting until ready to serve.
- Warm the tortillas. Heat corn tortillas directly over a gas flame or in a dry skillet until lightly charred in spots and pliable. Keep warm wrapped in a clean kitchen towel.
- Assemble and serve. Spoon the barbacoa onto warm tortillas. Top with finely diced white onion, fresh cilantro, and a squeeze of lime. Serve immediately with extra lime wedges and salsa on the side.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 420 | Protein: 32g | Fat: 22g | Carbs: 26g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 580mg