Soo-Jin goodbye. The real one. Not the 'see you next week' kind. The military wife kind.
She came over Saturday afternoon with Mia and a cooler full of Korean food: japchae, bulgogi, kimchi, rice, and a container of her mother's kimchi jjigae frozen for my road trip to Twentynine Palms. 'For the drive,' she said. 'You'll need real food.'
The cooler contained enough Korean food to feed us for three days. Soo-Jin's going-away gift: a portable Korean restaurant.
We sat on the patio — the patio where we grilled short ribs, where we cooked together twice a week, where our kids played on the grass — and we didn't talk about the move. We talked about the food. Every dish. Every recipe. The way her mother's hotteok are crispy on the outside. The way the bulgogi marinade needs overnight. The way the kimchi gets better with age.
Food talk as goodbye talk. When you can't say what you feel, you describe the food.
'Make the short ribs in the desert,' she said.
'The nearest Korean grocery store is probably in LA. Two and a half hours.'
'Then make them every time you go to LA. Promise.'
'Promise.'
She gave me a jar of her mother's homemade gochugaru — Korean red pepper flakes, the good kind, from her mother's kitchen in Koreatown. 'This is from my mom,' she said. 'She says welcome to the family.'
Welcome to the family. Through gochugaru. Through food.
I gave Soo-Jin my copies of Mom's recipe cards — the biscuits, the pulled pork, the potato salad. 'From my family to yours,' I said.
She held the cards and said, 'Your mother's handwriting is beautiful.' And I said, 'So is your mother's.' Because I've seen Soo-Jin's mother's recipes, written in Korean, in the same looping careful hand.
Two mothers. Two kitchens. Two sets of recipe cards. One friendship.
Soo-Jin hugged me at the door. Mia hugged Caleb. Dylan (I mean Caleb — wait, Mia hugged Caleb). The kids don't understand goodbye. The mothers do.
Made the short ribs one last time that night. The last Pendleton short ribs. The patio grill. The California sun setting over the ocean in the distance.
Not the last short ribs. Never the last. But the last ones HERE.
Goodbye, Soo-Jin. Thank you for the gochugaru. Thank you for the recipes. Thank you for being my California.
Three weeks until the desert.
Soo-Jin’s short ribs were always the centerpiece, but it was the layering of sesame, soy, garlic, and ginger running through everything she cooked that made her kitchen feel like a place you never wanted to leave. This sesame chicken stir-fry isn’t the short ribs—nothing ever will be—but it carries those same flavors: the toasted sesame oil, the caramel-salty depth of soy, the kind of dish that makes a new kitchen smell like somewhere you’ve already been loved. Make it in the desert. Make it every time you drive to LA for gochugaru. Make it and remember the patio.
Sesame Chicken Stir-Fry
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 15 min | Total Time: 30 min | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 3 tablespoons soy sauce, divided
- 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil, divided
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
- 1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
- 2 cups broccoli florets
- 1 cup snap peas, trimmed
- 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
- 1 tablespoon honey
- 1 teaspoon gochugaru or red pepper flakes (to taste)
- 3 green onions, sliced
- 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
- Cooked white rice, for serving
Instructions
- Marinate the chicken. In a medium bowl, toss chicken pieces with 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sesame oil, and the cornstarch until evenly coated. Let sit for at least 10 minutes while you prep the vegetables.
- Make the sauce. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce, remaining 1 tablespoon sesame oil, rice vinegar, honey, and gochugaru. Set aside.
- Sear the chicken. Heat vegetable oil in a large wok or skillet over high heat until shimmering. Add chicken in a single layer and cook, undisturbed, for 3 minutes until golden. Flip and cook another 2—3 minutes until cooked through. Transfer to a plate.
- Stir-fry the vegetables. In the same pan over high heat, add garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add bell pepper, broccoli, and snap peas. Stir-fry for 3—4 minutes until vegetables are tender-crisp.
- Combine and finish. Return chicken to the pan, pour the sauce over everything, and toss to coat. Cook 1—2 more minutes until the sauce thickens and glazes the chicken and vegetables.
- Serve. Spoon over steamed white rice and top with sliced green onions and toasted sesame seeds. Serve immediately.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 390 | Protein: 36g | Fat: 18g | Carbs: 22g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 780mg
About the cook who shared this
Rachel Abernathy
Week 224 of Rachel’s 30-year story
· San Diego, California
Rachel is a twenty-eight-year-old Marine wife and mom of two who has moved five times in six years and learned to cook a Thanksgiving dinner with half her cookware still in boxes. She married young, survived postpartum depression, and feeds her family of four on a junior Marine's salary with a freezer full of pre-made meals and a crockpot that has never let her down. She writes for the military spouses who are cooking dinner alone in base housing and wondering if they're enough. You are.