Saucy Chicken — Tortellini — The Noodle Bowl That Holds a Whole Week Together

A busy week. The engagement is out in the world now — announced at work, on a phone call with James's parents in San Jose (his mother cried, his father said "about time," his sister texted me a photo of a cake she had baked in our honor, which is how his sister expresses emotion), and now it is folded into the regular texture of our life. The ring feels less startling on my hand. I am getting used to being a person who is going to be married.

James's parents are tentatively flying up in October to meet Karen and David. This was his mother's idea and James is nervous about it in the specific way only a firstborn son is nervous about parents meeting in-laws. She is sharp. She does not suffer fools. She will, I predict, get along with Karen fine because Karen is also sharp and does not suffer fools. David and James's father are both engineers — there will be at least one hour of Boeing-versus-Taiwan-aerospace conversation at some point. I am not worried about the dinner. James is worried for both of us.

I had my first wedding planning meltdown on Thursday. It was over venue availability. Our top three choices are booked for all of September and October of 2022. I sat at the dining-room table surrounded by browser tabs and cried. James came and sat next to me and said, "Stephanie. We can get married anywhere. We can get married here, in this condo, in front of twenty people, and it will be right." I said, "I know. I wanted the winery." He said, "We can have a winery or we can have us. We have us. The winery is optional." I said, "I hate this kind of wisdom from you." He said, "You love this kind of wisdom from me." I did. I do.

We found a different winery. Woodinville. Smaller than the first three choices. Available the last Saturday in September 2022. We booked it the next day. I will write more about wedding details when there are details. For now: winery, September 24, 2022, fifty guests.

I wrote Jisoo about the date. She wrote back: "I will be there. Hye-jin has already agreed to translate the live stream. It is a gift from me and from her that we will be with you." I printed that letter.

Kevin called on Sunday. He wanted to talk about his best-man duties. He is taking them very seriously, in the careful way Kevin takes things now. He asked me if I thought he should write a speech in advance or speak off the cuff. I told him Kevin off the cuff is a disaster and Kevin with a written speech is excellent. He said, "I'll write." I said, "Thank God." He said, "Don't be mean." I said, "I love you." He said, "I love you too. Also Lisa says hi. Also she wants to meet you before the wedding." I said, "Bring her up for Thanksgiving." He said he would. I am going to meet Lisa. This is new.

I made kalguksu on Tuesday — hand-cut knife noodles in anchovy broth with zucchini and clams. Jisoo had sent the recipe earlier in the month. It is a humble dish. The noodles are rolled and cut by hand, which means they are irregular and thick and satisfying. James ate two bowls and said, "This is my new favorite." I said, "James, you say that every week." He said, "And every week it's true." The recipe this week is kalguksu. Unfancy, hand-made, made slowly on a weeknight because it was my grandmother's and my mother's and now it is mine.

Kalguksu is mine now—I’ll keep making it every time I need to feel my grandmother’s hands in the kitchen with me—but this week I also want to share something a little more weeknight-accessible for anyone who doesn’t have the time to roll noodles by hand while also fielding texts about wedding venues. Saucy Chicken & Tortellini is the dish I reach for when I want that same deep, bowl-of-something-warm feeling without the flour on the counter: store-bought tortellini, a quick pan sauce, and enough richness to make James say, predictably, “this is my new favorite.” It won’t replace kalguksu. Nothing will. But it belongs in the same category of food—the kind you make because the week asked a lot of you and dinner should ask very little.

Saucy Chicken & Tortellini

Prep Time: 10 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 30 min | Servings: 4

Ingredients

• 1 lb boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 (20 oz) package refrigerated cheese tortellini
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 (14.5 oz) can diced tomatoes, undrained
• 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 2 teaspoons Italian seasoning
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 cups fresh baby spinach
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
• Fresh basil, for garnish (optional)

Instructions

1. Cook the tortellini. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook tortellini according to package directions until just al dente, about 3–4 minutes. Drain and set aside.
2. Season and sear the chicken. Pat the chicken pieces dry and season with salt, pepper, and Italian seasoning. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken in a single layer and cook, undisturbed, for 3–4 minutes until golden. Flip and cook another 2–3 minutes until cooked through. Transfer to a plate.
3. Build the sauce. Reduce heat to medium. In the same skillet, add garlic and red pepper flakes and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant. Pour in the diced tomatoes and chicken broth, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Simmer for 5 minutes until slightly reduced.
4. Add the cream. Stir in the heavy cream and let the sauce simmer gently for 2–3 minutes until it thickens slightly and turns a warm orange-pink.
5. Combine everything. Return the chicken to the skillet. Add the cooked tortellini and baby spinach, folding gently until the spinach wilts, about 1 minute. Stir in the Parmesan and taste for seasoning.
6. Serve. Ladle into bowls and top with extra Parmesan and fresh basil if using. Serve immediately.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 620 | Protein: 42g | Fat: 26g | Carbs: 52g | Fiber: 4g | Sodium: 780mg