Hana is fourteen weeks old. She rolled over on Tuesday — front to back, on the play mat, with a look of absolute astonishment at what her body had just done. James and I were both watching. We cheered. We actually cheered, like spectators at a sporting event, which is essentially what parenting is: spectating the most important athletic competition of your life, in which the athlete is seven pounds heavier than when she started and the event is rotating ninety degrees.
I have been cooking more ambitiously during leave — freed from Amazon's schedule, I have time for the long-fermentation projects, the slow braises, the recipes that require three hours and your full attention. This week I started a batch of doenjang from scratch. Not from a packet, not from a jar — from dried soybeans, salt, and time. The process takes months. You boil the soybeans, mash them into blocks (meju), hang them to dry and ferment for weeks, then submerge them in salt brine for months. The fermentation produces both doenjang and ganjang (soy sauce). It is the oldest Korean preservation technique. It is the technique Jisoo uses. It is the technique I learned in Seoul during the culinary course that I will take years from now but that I am already hungry for.
Grace came to the house on Thursday — a social visit, not a work visit. She held Hana and taught me the proper meju technique: "The soybeans must be boiled until they are soft enough to mash with your fingers. Not a spoon. Your fingers. The fingers know when the beans are ready." She formed the meju blocks with her hands — dense, fragrant rectangles that she hung from a string in my kitchen window. My kitchen now has meju blocks hanging in the window like Korean prayer flags. James said, "Our kitchen looks like a fermentation laboratory." I said, "Our kitchen IS a fermentation laboratory." He did not disagree.
The recipe this week is a simple seasoned tofu — dubu-buchim — that Grace made for lunch while visiting. Firm tofu, sliced thick, pan-fried in sesame oil until golden and crispy. Topped with a sauce of soy sauce, gochugaru, garlic, sesame seeds, sliced scallion, and a drizzle of perilla oil. Grace made it in twelve minutes, one-handed, while holding Hana in the other arm. I watched a sixty-eight-year-old woman cook a perfect dish one-handed while holding my sleeping daughter and I thought: this is mastery. Not of cooking. Of life. Of the ability to hold a baby and a spatula and make both look effortless. I aspire to this. I am not there yet. But I am watching. And watching is learning.
Grace’s visit reminded me that mastery isn’t always about complexity — it’s about knowing exactly what something needs and giving it that, nothing more. While my kitchen window fills with meju blocks and my long-fermentation projects quietly do their slow work, there’s still a place for recipes that are simply honest and grounding: a hot oven, sweet potatoes, onions, olive oil, and time. This is the kind of dish I reach for on the days between the ambitious ones, the side that asks almost nothing of you but gives back warmth and depth in return.
Roasted Sweet Potatoes & Onions
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 40 minutes | Total Time: 50 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
- 1 large yellow onion, cut into 1-inch wedges
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped (optional, for garnish)
Instructions
- Preheat. Position a rack in the center of your oven and preheat to 425°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
- Prep the vegetables. Place the cubed sweet potatoes and onion wedges in a large bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt, pepper, garlic powder, and smoked paprika. Toss well to coat evenly.
- Arrange. Spread the vegetables in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet, making sure pieces are not overlapping. Crowding the pan will steam rather than roast them.
- Roast. Roast for 20 minutes, then use a spatula to flip the sweet potatoes and onions. Return to the oven and roast for another 18–20 minutes, until the sweet potatoes are tender through and caramelized at the edges and the onions are golden and slightly crispy.
- Finish and serve. Transfer to a serving platter, scatter with fresh parsley if using, and serve immediately.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 195 | Protein: 2g | Fat: 10g | Carbs: 26g | Fiber: 4g | Sodium: 590mg