The garden is now the central operation of the daily routine. The peas are six inches tall and beginning to vine onto the trellis, the lettuce row needs thinning, the radishes are coming up thick, the spring spinach is up in earnest, and the asparagus is in its full production stride — I cut a half-pound a day right now, more than I can eat alone, and have begun bringing some to Ted and Patricia next door, who receive it with the appropriate gratitude of neighbors who know what fresh asparagus tastes like and what supermarket asparagus tastes like and the gulf between the two. Patricia made me a quiche from a pound of it Wednesday, which was returned to me Thursday in a covered pie plate, which I ate Friday at lunch with a green salad and which was excellent, the kind of egg-and-asparagus dish that requires good eggs and good asparagus and good butter and almost nothing else, the simple things done well.
Ben called Sunday from Portland — Sarah's son, twenty-eight, in his second year of teaching English at a charter school in Portland that I do not entirely understand the structure of but that seems to suit him. He had a question about the assignment of "A Soldier of the Great War" by Mark Helprin to his juniors, which is a long novel and which he was unsure whether he could ask high school students to commit to. I told him that you do not assign a long novel to high school students unless you trust them to read it, and that the question of whether you should assign it is really the question of whether you trust them, and that he should know after a year and a half of teaching whether he trusted his current group. He said: I think I do. I said: then assign it. He said: what if some of them don't finish. I said: some of them won't finish anyway, and the ones who do will get something out of it that they could not get from a shorter book, and the assignment is for the ones who will finish. He said: that's harder than the way I was thinking about it. I said: it is harder. He said: thank you, grampy. We talked for another twenty minutes about the rest of the syllabus and his classroom management and the small particulars of teaching English to seventeen-year-olds in 2025, and when we hung up I sat by the woodstove and thought about Ben at the front of a classroom I will never see, and I felt something in my chest that I do not have a clean word for and that I am not in a hurry to find one.
Made a strawberry-rhubarb pie Saturday — the first of the season, the rhubarb from the patch by the back fence which has been there for sixty years, the strawberries from the co-op because my own berries are still three weeks off. The pie is one of the dishes that announces the early summer most reliably, the bright red filling and the lattice top and the smell that fills the kitchen for the entire afternoon. I made the lard crust the way Helen taught me, the way her mother taught her, the way her grandmother had taught her — cold lard, cold water, minimal handling, the dough rolled between sheets of waxed paper to keep it together — and the crust came out exactly the way it should come out, which is to say flaky in the way that no all-butter crust ever quite achieves. I ate two slices Saturday night and one Sunday for breakfast and one Monday for lunch and the pie was gone by Tuesday, which is a respectable rate of consumption for a household of one.
The pie was gone by Tuesday, as it should be, and when I went out Thursday morning and saw how much rhubarb was still standing along the back fence — unbothered, patient, there since before I owned this house — I thought it deserved a second turn in a different form. A streusel cake asks less of the rhubarb than a pie does; it lets the tartness sit forward without the crust competing, and the warm vanilla sauce does what cream does for a slice of pie but more slowly, more generously. It felt right for the week: something from the same ground, made a different way, for no one but me and the woodstove and whatever that feeling in my chest still needed.
Rhubarb Streusel Cake with Warm Vanilla Sauce
Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 45 min | Total Time: 1 hr 5 min | Servings: 9
Ingredients
- Streusel Topping
- 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/3 cup packed brown sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
- 3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
- Cake
- 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 3/4 cup granulated sugar
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled
- 1 large egg
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 2 cups fresh rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
- Warm Vanilla Sauce
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- Pinch of salt
Instructions
- Preheat and prepare. Heat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8x8-inch baking pan and set aside.
- Make the streusel. Combine flour, brown sugar, and cinnamon in a small bowl. Work in the cold butter with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Refrigerate while you prepare the cake.
- Mix the dry ingredients. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt.
- Add the wet ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk together milk, melted butter, egg, and vanilla. Pour into the dry ingredients and stir until just combined — do not overmix.
- Fold in the rhubarb. Gently fold the rhubarb pieces into the batter, then spread evenly into the prepared pan.
- Add streusel and bake. Scatter the streusel topping evenly over the batter. Bake for 40–45 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the top is golden. Let cool in the pan for at least 15 minutes before cutting.
- Make the vanilla sauce. While the cake bakes, combine sugar, heavy cream, and butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves and the butter melts. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook 3–4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and salt. Serve warm over sliced cake.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 390 | Protein: 4g | Fat: 19g | Carbs: 52g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 210mg