Peak foliage. The mountains are on fire — not literally, though some years it looks like it — and the entire state of Vermont is performing its annual miracle of turning death into beauty. The maples go first: orange, red, scarlet. Then the birches: gold. Then the oaks: rust and brown. The whole thing takes two weeks, maybe three, and then it's over and the trees are bare and the leaves are on the ground and we're back to the honest gray of November. But for these two weeks, Vermont is the most beautiful place on earth. I've lived here my whole life and I still look up and think: how.
Helen and I drove to Stowe on Saturday. Not for the shopping, not for the tourists, not for the restaurants that charge thirty dollars for a burger — for the drive. Route 100 in October is a tunnel of color, the trees arching over the road, the leaves falling like confetti, and if you drive slowly enough and roll the windows down, you can smell it: damp leaves, cold air, the particular perfume of autumn that's sweet and sharp and gone too quickly.
I made apple cider donuts at home. Not from a roadside stand — at home, in the kitchen, with cider from the farm stand reduced to a concentrate and folded into the batter. The dough is soft, the donuts fried in oil until golden, rolled in cinnamon sugar while still warm. They're not as good as the ones from Cold Hollow Cider Mill, and I don't care, because the kitchen smelled like October and the process of making them — the frying, the rolling, the sugar on my fingers — was worth more than the eating.
Three people came to the door this week asking to photograph the farmhouse. Leaf peepers. The farmhouse, I must admit, is photogenic in October — white clapboard against red maples, the stone wall along the road, the sugarhouse in the background. I said yes to all three. Helen offered them coffee. Two accepted. One stayed for twenty minutes and told us about her grandmother's farm in New Hampshire that looked just like ours. She cried a little. Helen gave her a tissue and an oatmeal cookie. That's the Bergstrom response to tears: tissues and cookies. It covers most situations.
The foliage will be gone by next week. The peak is the peak — brief, brilliant, unrepeatable. You look at it. You breathe. You let it go. Next year it'll come back. It always comes back.
Donuts were good. Leaves were better. October. The best show in town.
The apple cider donuts scratched the itch, but honestly, the frying was the point — the oil, the heat, the thing coming out of the pan golden and smelling like October. When Helen asked what I was making the next morning with the leftover canned pumpkin from the pantry, I knew: fritters. Same principle, different vegetable, same kitchen perfume. These pumpkin corn fritters have that same quality I was chasing with the donuts — crisp on the outside, soft in the middle, best eaten warm while standing at the counter before anyone else gets to them.
Pumpkin Corn Fritters
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 20 minutes | Total Time: 30 minutes | Servings: 4 (about 12 fritters)
Ingredients
- 1 cup canned pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling)
- 1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels, thawed if frozen
- 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/4 cup cornmeal
- 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
- 2 green onions, thinly sliced
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
- Vegetable oil, for frying (about 1/2 cup)
- Sour cream or apple butter, for serving
Instructions
- Mix the batter. In a large bowl, combine the pumpkin puree, corn kernels, eggs, flour, cornmeal, Parmesan, green onions, garlic powder, smoked paprika, salt, pepper, and cayenne if using. Stir until a thick, cohesive batter forms. It should hold its shape when scooped — if too loose, add flour one tablespoon at a time.
- Heat the oil. Pour enough vegetable oil into a large skillet to cover the bottom by about 1/4 inch. Heat over medium to medium-high until shimmering, about 2–3 minutes. Test with a small drop of batter — it should sizzle immediately.
- Fry the fritters. Working in batches, drop heaping tablespoons of batter into the hot oil, pressing each one gently into a round about 1/2 inch thick. Fry undisturbed for 2–3 minutes until the edges look set and the bottom is deep golden brown. Flip and fry another 2–3 minutes on the second side.
- Drain and repeat. Transfer finished fritters to a wire rack set over a baking sheet, or a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat with remaining batter, adding oil to the pan as needed between batches. Keep finished fritters warm in a 200°F oven if needed.
- Serve warm. Arrange on a platter and serve immediately with sour cream, apple butter, or a drizzle of maple syrup alongside.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 265 | Protein: 9g | Fat: 12g | Carbs: 31g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 390mg