By Post-Thanksgiving Monday and James left Sunday morning. He stood on the porch saying goodbye for longer than usual, which I recognized as the goodbye of a man who doesn't quite know when he'll be back and wants to carry the visit a little further. I told him to come back in the spring when the garden is in. He said, I will. He said, Loretta, I don't tell you this enough, but you are the thing this family turns toward. You know that, right? I said, I'm just cooking, James. He said, no. That's not all you're doing. Then he got in his car and he drove away and I watched him turn the corner the way I always watch.
The refrigerator has leftovers organized the way Shanice taught me — labeled, by use-by date — and I have been eating from them all week without anything feeling redundant. This is the particular gift of a meal made with intention: the leftovers are as good as the original. I made a Thanksgiving hash Tuesday morning, which is something I've been doing for years — the turkey, the dressing, a fried egg on top — and it is quietly one of my favorite meals of the year. Nobody talks about Thanksgiving hash. It is the underrated sequel.
I called Destiny to tell her what James had said — about being the thing the family turns toward — and she was quiet for a moment and then said, Mama, we've all known that for years. We just didn't know if you knew it. I sat with that for a while. Maybe I am starting to know it. Maybe that is the work of the third act of a life: learning to receive what you have been giving all along.
The hash I mentioned — the turkey and dressing with a fried egg on top — that’s mine and I’ll keep it. But the dish I keep coming back to this time of year, the one that uses up those mashed potatoes sitting in their labeled container in the back of the fridge, is this potato soufflé. It puffs up golden and improbable, and it feels like exactly the kind of thing you make when you’ve just been told you are the thing the family turns toward — something that looks simple from the outside and turns out to be more than you expected. James would have had seconds.
Potato Soufflé
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 45 min | Total Time: 1 hr | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 3 cups mashed potatoes (leftover or freshly made)
- 3 large eggs, separated
- 1/2 cup sour cream
- 1/4 cup whole milk
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
- 1/2 cup sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
- 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon onion powder
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 2 tablespoons chives or green onions, finely chopped
Instructions
- Preheat and prepare. Preheat your oven to 375°F. Butter a 1.5-quart soufflé dish or a deep 8-inch round baking dish generously and set aside.
- Mix the base. In a large bowl, combine the mashed potatoes, egg yolks, sour cream, milk, and melted butter. Stir until smooth and fully incorporated. Fold in the cheddar, half the Parmesan, garlic powder, onion powder, salt, pepper, and chives.
- Whip the egg whites. In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites with a hand mixer or stand mixer on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, about 3–4 minutes. The whites should hold their shape without drooping.
- Fold gently. Add one-third of the whipped egg whites to the potato mixture and stir to lighten it. Then gently fold in the remaining whites in two additions, using a wide rubber spatula and a light hand. Stop when just combined — streaks are okay. Overmixing will deflate the soufflé.
- Fill and top. Pour the batter into the prepared dish. Scatter the remaining Parmesan over the top.
- Bake. Bake uncovered for 40–45 minutes, until the top is deep golden brown and the center is set but still has a slight wobble. Avoid opening the oven during the first 30 minutes.
- Serve immediately. Soufflés begin to settle once out of the oven, which is perfectly fine. Bring it straight to the table and serve warm. It will be just as good — just a little humbler.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 265 | Protein: 10g | Fat: 16g | Carbs: 21g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 390mg