Two years. One hundred and four weeks. Week one, I was a nineteen-year-old who couldn't boil pasta. Week 104, I'm a twenty-one-year-old who carries forty-seven recipe cards, five original beer recipes, and the weight and the wonder of everything Babcia Helen taught me.
This year broke me and remade me. Babcia's fall. Babcia's recovery. Babcia's decline. Babcia's death. The Wigilia I cooked. The pierogi I perfected. The mushroom stout that became Forest Floor. The Instagram that grew from four followers to fifteen hundred. The Polish wheat beer fermenting in a tank, named for a woman who never drank beer in her life.
I learned things this year that cooking can't teach you. I learned that the people you love will leave. I learned that grief is not a problem to solve but a weight to carry. I learned that the best way to honor someone is to keep doing what they taught you. I learned that Babcia was right about everything: more dill, more prunes, more time. More. Always more.
At the brewery, the spring lineup is launching. Helen's Wheat — that's the official name, approved this week, over my quiet objection that it was too personal and Marcus's firm insistence that personal is exactly what it should be — goes on tap next month. It'll be my sixth original recipe at Lakefront. Each one more mine than the last. Each one a chapter in a story I'm still writing.
I went to Babcia's house on Saturday. Alone. The house is being sold — Mom can't maintain it, and Babcia didn't leave a will about the property. The realtor put a sign in the yard this week. I walked through the rooms one last time. The bedroom where she slept. The living room where she watched Polish TV. The kitchen.
I stood in the kitchen for a long time. The counter where she rolled dough. The stove where she simmered bigos. The window where the light came through on Sunday afternoons. I touched the counter, the way she did in December when I helped her stand there for the last time. I closed my eyes. I listened.
And I heard it. Barely. A hum. Not real — not a sound in the room — but real in the way that matters. A memory so vivid it became sensation. Babcia, humming a Polish hymn, her hands in the dough, the flour dust in the air, the afternoon light. All of it, still here, still alive in the walls and the wood and the son she taught to listen.
I locked the door and drove home. In my apartment, I opened the flour canister — her canister, the one Mom gave me from the house — and I made pierogi. Babcia's pierogi. Perfect pierogi. And I hummed while I made them. A Polish hymn. The melody she taught me without ever teaching me, the song that lives in the kitchen, the sound of love continued.
Year two, done. The hardest year. The most important year. The year I became her kitchen.
She's gone. The food is not. The hum is not. I am not.
More dill, Babcia. Always more dill.
When I got back to my apartment after locking Babcia’s door for the last time, I didn’t sit down, I didn’t cry — I opened her flour canister and I got to work. These are her pierogi, exactly as she made them: the dough she pressed into my palms until my palms remembered it without her, the filling she seasoned until I learned what “enough” smelled like, the crimp she showed me a hundred times across two years and one kitchen. If you’ve lost someone who cooked for you, you already know — making their food is the closest thing to holding them again.
Pierogi
Prep Time: 45 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 1 hr 5 min | Servings: 6 (about 24 pierogi)
Ingredients
- Dough
- 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 1/2 cup warm water
- 1 large egg
- 1 tbsp sour cream
- Filling
- 3 medium russet potatoes, peeled, boiled, and mashed (about 2 cups)
- 1 cup sharp cheddar or farmer’s cheese, shredded
- 1 small yellow onion, finely diced and sautéed in butter until soft
- 2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped (more if Babcia is watching)
- Salt and white pepper to taste
- For Serving
- 3 tbsp unsalted butter
- 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
- Sour cream, for topping
- Fresh dill, for garnish
Instructions
- Make the dough. Whisk flour and salt together in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add the warm water, egg, and sour cream. Stir until a shaggy dough forms, then turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead 5–7 minutes until smooth and elastic. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
- Make the filling. While the dough rests, combine the warm mashed potatoes, shredded cheese, sautéed onion, and dill in a bowl. Season generously with salt and white pepper. Taste and adjust — it should be savory, a little sharp, and fragrant with dill. Let cool completely before filling.
- Roll and cut. On a well-floured surface, roll the rested dough out to about 1/8-inch thickness. Using a 3-inch round cutter or the rim of a glass, cut as many rounds as possible. Gather scraps, re-roll, and cut again.
- Fill and seal. Place 1 heaping teaspoon of filling in the center of each round. Fold the dough over into a half-moon, pressing the edges firmly together. Crimp the sealed edge with your fingers or press with the tines of a fork to ensure a tight seal. Set finished pierogi on a lightly floured baking sheet.
- Boil. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Working in batches of 8–10, lower pierogi gently into the water. Cook for 3–4 minutes after they float to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
- Pan-fry. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add sliced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until deeply golden and caramelized, about 10–12 minutes. Add the boiled pierogi in a single layer and cook until lightly browned and crisped on each side, 2–3 minutes per side. Work in batches if needed.
- Serve. Plate pierogi with caramelized onions spooned over the top, a generous dollop of sour cream on the side, and a pinch of fresh dill. Serve immediately.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 315 | Protein: 9g | Fat: 11g | Carbs: 45g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 375mg
About the cook who shared this
Jake Kowalski
Week 104 of Jake’s 30-year story
· Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Jake is a twenty-nine-year-old brewery worker, newlywed, and proud Polish-American from Milwaukee's Bay View neighborhood. He didn't start cooking until his grandmother Babcia Helen passed away and left behind a stack of grease-stained recipe cards. Now he makes pierogi from scratch, smokes meats on a balcony smoker his landlord pretends not to notice, and writes for guys who want to cook good food but don't know a roux from a rub.