The Bucks are on a tear in the bubble and Milwaukee is alive with basketball energy that feels almost pre-pandemic. Dad calls after every game with a one-sentence review: "Giannis is the best player I've ever seen." (He says this about every good player — he said it about Brett Favre, about Ryan Braun, about Christian Yelich. Tom Kowalski has a revolving pantheon of the greatest player he's ever seen.)
I'm settling into the RecipeSpinoff rhythm. The monthly pieces are becoming the centerpiece of my creative life — more meaningful than the Instagram posts (which are daily, casual, ephemeral), more impactful than the Milwaukee Eats column (which continues, but with a smaller audience). RecipeSpinoff is where the real writing happens. The essays that take a week to write and a lifetime to feel.
The smoker is getting a workout this summer. Every weekend, something new: smoked chicken thighs with Alabama white sauce, smoked sausage links (homemade, my recipe from last year, improved with more marjoram), smoked pork belly for ramen bowls. The ramen was the surprise hit — homemade broth (chicken and pork bones, twelve hours), thin noodles, the smoked pork belly sliced and seared, a soft-boiled egg, green onion, nori. Not remotely Polish. Entirely delicious. I'm a pierogi guy who makes ramen on the weekends and I see no contradiction.
The pierogi special at the taproom this week: sweet corn and cheddar. Fresh corn from the farmers' market, charred in a hot pan, mixed with sharp cheddar and a pinch of smoked paprika. Wrapped in Babcia's dough. They taste like summer in Wisconsin — sweet, smoky, cheesy. Sold out in thirty minutes. The taproom bartender has started calling me "pierogi guy" the way the farmers' market people do. It's catching on. My identity is fully formed: I am the pierogi guy.
Fifteen-month plan for Helen's: I sat down on Sunday night and mapped it out. Save aggressively for twelve more months. Continue building the platform. Finish the Polish food series. Then, by fall 2021 or spring 2022, start looking at storefronts seriously. Not "window shopping for a future" but actually walking in, asking questions, running numbers. The business plan is done. The recipes are proven. The audience exists. The only thing missing is courage and money, and the money is coming. The courage... I'll find it. Mrs. Wojcik will make sure of that.
After the taproom batch sold out in thirty minutes and the bartender officially crowned me “pierogi guy,” I came home with flour on my jacket and exactly zero pierogi left for myself — the cobbler’s children have no shoes, and the pierogi guy has no pierogi. That’s when Pierogi Pasta Shells earn their place in my rotation: all the creamy, cheesy filling I was craving, tucked into jumbo shells, ready before I can second-guess the fifteen-month plan written on the legal pad still sitting on my kitchen table. It’s not Babcia’s dough, but on a Tuesday night after a sellout, it’s exactly right.
Pierogi Pasta Shells
Prep Time: 25 min | Cook Time: 35 min | Total Time: 1 hr | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 24 jumbo pasta shells
- 2 cups mashed potatoes (prepared, cooled)
- 1 1/2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded, divided
- 4 oz cream cheese, softened
- 1/4 cup sour cream, plus more for serving
- 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- Salt and black pepper to taste
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons fresh chives or green onion, chopped
- 1/2 cup chicken broth
Instructions
- Cook the shells. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook jumbo pasta shells according to package directions until just al dente, about 9–11 minutes. Drain and spread on a lightly oiled baking sheet to cool without sticking.
- Caramelize the onions. Melt butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add sliced onion with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and soft, about 20 minutes. Set aside half for topping.
- Make the filling. In a large bowl, combine mashed potatoes, cream cheese, sour cream, 1 cup of the shredded cheddar, smoked paprika, garlic powder, and half the caramelized onions. Season generously with salt and black pepper. Stir until smooth and well combined.
- Fill the shells. Preheat oven to 375°F. Pour chicken broth into the bottom of a 9x13-inch baking dish. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of filling into each pasta shell and arrange in the dish in a single layer, open side up.
- Top and bake. Scatter remaining caramelized onions over the shells, then sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 cup cheddar. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake an additional 12–15 minutes, until cheese is bubbly and lightly browned at the edges.
- Finish and serve. Let rest 5 minutes. Top with fresh chives or green onion and a dollop of sour cream alongside each serving.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 480 | Protein: 15g | Fat: 22g | Carbs: 55g | Fiber: 3g | Sodium: 420mg
About the cook who shared this
Jake Kowalski
Week 227 of Jake’s 30-year story
· Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Jake is a twenty-nine-year-old brewery worker, newlywed, and proud Polish-American from Milwaukee's Bay View neighborhood. He didn't start cooking until his grandmother Babcia Helen passed away and left behind a stack of grease-stained recipe cards. Now he makes pierogi from scratch, smokes meats on a balcony smoker his landlord pretends not to notice, and writes for guys who want to cook good food but don't know a roux from a rub.