Late January 2030. The fourth book manuscript is with Claire and the waiting period has begun — the gap between submission and editorial response that is always the same length as it needs to be and always feels longer. I've filled previous waiting periods by cooking, which I'm doing, and by starting the next project, which I'm also doing: the letter to Clara, the family archive with Noah, and the earliest sketches of something I'm not ready to call a fifth book yet but which is gathering in the notebooks the way things gather before they become.
Mason called this week with news: Cellar was named one of the best new restaurants in Utah by a major food publication. He was matter-of-fact about it, as he is about most things. He said, "The fermented butter was mentioned specifically." I said, "Of course it was." He said, "I'm going to do a tasting menu version of the regular menu for two weeks. Special event." I said that sounded exactly right. He said, "I want to film it. Do you still have your camera setup?" I said yes. He said, "Can I come use it?" I said of course. He came on a Saturday and we filmed for six hours in my kitchen while he tested the tasting menu dishes. The footage was his to use for the restaurant's social media. I kept a copy because he was in my kitchen for six hours making extraordinary food and I wanted to remember every minute.
His duck. His sourdough. His cultured butter and fermented apple preparation and the miso custard that ended the meal. My son. Extraordinary.
Watching Mason work in my kitchen for six hours — the quiet confidence of someone who has learned that transformation takes time — sent me back to something simple I’d been meaning to make for weeks: pickled red cabbage. There’s something deeply right about turning to fermentation when you’re already living inside a waiting period, already trusting that things are gathering and becoming. This recipe won’t make the front page of any food publication, but it carries the same philosophy Mason’s cooking does: patience, acid, and faith in the process.
Pickled Red Cabbage
Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 5 minutes | Total Time: 20 minutes + 24 hours resting | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 1 small head red cabbage (about 1 1/2 lbs), thinly sliced
- 1 cup apple cider vinegar
- 1/2 cup white wine vinegar
- 1/2 cup water
- 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
- 1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds (optional)
- 2 garlic cloves, lightly smashed
- 1 bay leaf
Instructions
- Prepare the cabbage. Remove the outer leaves from the cabbage and slice it in half through the core. Cut out the core, then slice the cabbage into thin strips, about 1/8-inch thick. Place in a large clean jar or heatproof bowl.
- Make the brine. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the apple cider vinegar, white wine vinegar, water, sugar, and salt. Stir until the sugar and salt are fully dissolved, about 3–4 minutes. Remove from heat.
- Add aromatics. Tuck the peppercorns, caraway seeds, smashed garlic, and bay leaf in among the cabbage slices.
- Pour and cool. Pour the warm brine over the cabbage, pressing gently to submerge the cabbage as much as possible. Let it cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
- Seal and rest. Cover the jar or transfer to a lidded container. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours before serving — the color deepens and the flavor mellows beautifully the longer it sits.
- Serve. Use as a condiment alongside roasted meats, grain bowls, cheese boards, or rich braised dishes. Keeps refrigerated for up to 3 weeks.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 35 | Protein: 1g | Fat: 0g | Carbs: 7g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 210mg