Election week. I am not going to write much about the election itself — this is a cooking journal and I have strong opinions I am not ready to put in public writing yet. What I will say is that it was a heavy week, the kind where the weight of being a Cherokee man in America sat on my chest in a different way than usual, and when a week is heavy I cook the food that makes me feel located. Rooted. Specific to a place and a people.
I made chicken fried steak Wednesday night. This is the most Oklahoma food that exists — a thinly pounded beef cutlet, dredged in seasoned flour and egg and breadcrumbs, fried hard in a skillet until it is golden and slightly excessive, served with country gravy made from the drippings, white and thick and peppered. It is not indigenous food. It is not Mexican food. It is the food of Oklahoma settlers and working-class diners and church potlucks and Tuesday nights when nothing else will do. It is also the food of my childhood, because Terry made chicken fried steak at least twice a month and Danny ate it without ideology and I grew up eating it without ideology, and you do not get to have ideology about the food that loved you when you were seven.
Hannah made mashed potatoes. Green beans from a can with bacon. This is not how Hannah normally cooks — she is usually the one pushing toward whole grains and traditional preparations and seasonal produce. She made canned green beans with bacon on a Tuesday in November and she sat down and ate them without commenting on herself at all, and I loved her completely in that moment.
Kai ate three bites of chicken fried steak and then asked for more gravy, which he ate with a spoon. This is correct behavior. The gravy is the best part. I am raising him right.
I called Caleb that night to check in. He sounded okay — tired, like everyone. He was not watching the returns. "I know how it goes," he said. "For us it always goes the same way." He is not wrong. I wished I had an argument against it. I did not. I told him to eat something. He said he would. You cook what holds you when the world is uncertain. You eat what your mother made, in the country you were born in, which is imperfect and complicated and yours.
Kai ate the gravy with a spoon and he was not wrong to do it. Good gravy — real gravy, made from the fat left in the pan after something has fried hard and given itself over — is the part of the meal that does the actual holding. The chicken fried steak gets the credit, but the gravy is the reason you sit down and stay. This is the version I keep coming back to: simple, built from drippings, thick enough to slow a spoon, peppered until it means something.
Perfect Turkey Gravy
Prep Time: 5 minutes | Cook Time: 15 minutes | Total Time: 20 minutes | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 1/4 cup pan drippings (from roasted turkey, fried steak, or roasted chicken)
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter
- 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
- 3 cups turkey or chicken broth, warm
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/4 teaspoon onion powder
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (optional)
- 1 tablespoon heavy cream (optional, for richness)
Instructions
- Build the roux. Pour drippings into a medium skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Add butter and let it melt together with the drippings. Once the fat is hot and shimmering, whisk in the flour all at once. Cook, whisking constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes until the mixture turns a pale golden color and smells faintly nutty.
- Add the broth. While whisking, pour in the warm broth in a slow, steady stream — about 1/2 cup at a time — allowing each addition to fully incorporate before adding the next. This prevents lumps and builds a smooth, even body in the gravy.
- Season and simmer. Add salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, and thyme if using. Bring the gravy to a gentle simmer over medium heat, whisking frequently. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes until thickened to a consistency that coats the back of a spoon.
- Finish and adjust. Stir in heavy cream if using. Taste and adjust seasoning — this gravy wants more pepper than you think it does. Reduce heat to low and keep warm until ready to serve. If the gravy thickens too much as it sits, whisk in additional warm broth a tablespoon at a time.
- Serve. Ladle generously over chicken fried steak, mashed potatoes, biscuits, or anything else on the table that needs it. Do not ration it. The gravy is the point.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 110 | Protein: 2g | Fat: 8g | Carbs: 7g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 310mg