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Pecan Shortbread Tea Cakes — Close Is Enough

Mama turned eighty-two in September. The gathering at Whitehaven was smaller this year — just four of the five siblings, because Raymond's Ruth is too sick for him to travel. Raymond called on the phone and we passed it around, and his voice was thin and tired, and Mama heard it and said, "Raymond, you come when you can." And the simplicity of that — come when you can — is the grace of a mother who understands that her children have lives that are complicated and demanding and sometimes prevent them from being where she needs them to be, and the understanding is its own form of love.

She was less clear this year than last. She knew us — knew our names, knew we were her children — but the details were fuzzy, the years blurring into each other, the grandchildren's names mixing with our childhood friends' names, the present and the past collapsing into a single moment that she occupied alone, even when we were sitting right there. I held her hand and she said, "Earl, you're so big." I said, "I know, Mama." She said, "Just like when you were born." I said, "Nine pounds, four ounces." She smiled. The number — my birth weight — is the last fact she'll forget, and maybe she'll never forget it, and maybe that one number will be the thread she holds when everything else unravels.

I brought sweet potato pie. Rosetta baked it. Mama tasted it and said, "Close." Not right. Not wrong. Close. Which is where we are — close to perfect, close to the original, close to the hands that made it for sixty years, but not there, not quite, because the original is irreplaceable and the close is all we have, and close will have to be enough.

On the drive home from Whitehaven, I kept hearing Mama’s voice saying “close” — not disappointed, not satisfied, just honest. It made me think about all the things we bake trying to get back to something. These Pecan Shortbread Tea Cakes are what I make when I need my hands to be doing something Southern and simple and true. They’re not sweet potato pie, and they’re not Mama’s hands, but they’re close — and right now, close is what we have.

Pecan Shortbread Tea Cakes

Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 12 min | Total Time: 32 min | Servings: 24 cookies

Ingredients

  • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
  • 1/2 cup powdered sugar, plus more for rolling
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 3/4 cup finely chopped pecans
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Instructions

  1. Preheat. Heat oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
  2. Cream butter and sugar. In a large bowl, beat softened butter and 1/2 cup powdered sugar together with a hand mixer on medium speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Mix in vanilla extract.
  3. Add dry ingredients. Reduce speed to low and gradually mix in flour, salt, and cinnamon until just combined — do not overmix. The dough will be soft.
  4. Fold in pecans. Stir in the chopped pecans by hand until evenly distributed through the dough.
  5. Shape. Roll dough into 1-inch balls between your palms. Place 1 inch apart on prepared baking sheets and gently press each ball to flatten slightly.
  6. Bake. Bake 10 to 12 minutes, until the bottoms are just lightly golden and the tops look set but not browned. Do not overbake — they firm up as they cool.
  7. Roll in sugar. While cookies are still warm (but cool enough to handle), roll each one in powdered sugar until evenly coated. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, then roll in powdered sugar once more for a clean, snowy finish.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 118 | Protein: 1g | Fat: 9g | Carbs: 10g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 38mg

Earl Johnson
About the cook who shared this
Earl Johnson
Week 149 of Earl’s 30-year story · Memphis, Tennessee
Earl "Big E" Johnson is a sixty-seven-year-old retired postal carrier, a forty-two-year husband, and a Memphis BBQ legend who learned to smoke pork shoulder at his Uncle Clyde's stand when he was eleven years old. He lost his daughter Denise to sickle cell disease at twenty-three, and he honors her every year by smoking her favorite meal on her birthday and setting a plate at the table. His dry rub uses sixteen spices he keeps in a mayonnaise jar. He will not share the recipe. Not even with Rosetta.

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