Labor Day weekend. The accounting: the barn is full, the accounts are healthy, the apprenticeship has produced a craftsman who's ready to move toward independence, the writing has expanded into a form with an audience, the therapy has been ongoing for seven months and is doing what it's supposed to do, and Linda Owens stood at the fence in the north pasture and told me I was going to be all right. That's an acceptable accounting for a Labor Day weekend.
Dad worked the fence line with me Saturday, same as every year. Slower than last year, but thorough. He found a section near the east corner that needed new staples and he put them in himself, kneeling in the grass, the hammer steady enough. When he stood back up he held the fence post for a moment before letting go. I pretended not to see that. Some things are better not named.
I've been thinking about what comes next in the way that you think about next when the current chapter is settling into its ending. Not the end of things — just the feeling that the shape of the next chapter is becoming visible at the edges. I'm thirty-six. I've been sober for three and a half years. The ranch is structurally mine. The therapy has been dismantling the walls one brick at a time. Something is changing in the direction of possible that wasn't possible before. I can't say more specifically than that because I don't know yet what it is.
Made roasted chicken with preserved lemon and olives again — the North African dish I'd first made in March. It's become a summer-ending staple now. I make it when I need to eat something that tastes like deliberate care. The preserved lemon in particular: bright and complex and patient in a way that only things made months ago can be.
The preserved lemon I used Saturday had been sitting in its jar since March — the same batch I made the first time I cooked this dish, back when the year was younger and so was my understanding of what this chapter was becoming. There’s something right about eating food that required that kind of patience on a weekend where I’m taking stock of what’s been built slowly, over years. One pot, one pan, everything going in together — and coming out as something worth sitting down to.
One-Pot Dinner: Roasted Chicken with Preserved Lemon & Olives
Prep Time: 20 minutes | Cook Time: 55 minutes | Total Time: 1 hour 15 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 3 1/2 to 4 lbs bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces (thighs and drumsticks work best)
- 1/4 preserved lemon, pulp discarded, rind thinly sliced
- 3/4 cup green or Castelvetrano olives, pitted
- 1 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
- 4 cloves garlic, smashed
- 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
- 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
- 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
- Fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped, for serving
Instructions
- Season the chicken. Pat chicken pieces dry with paper towels. In a small bowl, combine cumin, paprika, coriander, turmeric, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. Rub the spice mixture all over the chicken, under the skin where possible. Let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes while you prep the other ingredients.
- Sear the chicken. Heat olive oil in a large oven-safe skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add chicken skin-side down and sear without moving for 5–6 minutes, until the skin is deep golden brown. Flip and sear the other side for 3 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate and reduce heat to medium.
- Build the base. Add sliced onion to the same pan and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes until softened. Add smashed garlic and cook 1 minute more. Pour in chicken broth, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
- Add the preserved lemon and olives. Scatter the sliced preserved lemon rind and olives into the broth. Stir to distribute. Nestle the seared chicken pieces back into the pan, skin-side up, so the skin sits above the liquid.
- Roast. Transfer the uncovered pan to a 400°F (200°C) oven. Roast for 35–40 minutes, until the chicken skin is crispy and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a thigh reads 165°F. If the pan liquid reduces too aggressively, add a splash of water or broth.
- Rest and serve. Let the chicken rest in the pan for 5 minutes before serving. Spoon the pan juices, olives, and lemon slices over each piece. Finish with fresh parsley. Serve with couscous, crusty bread, or roasted potatoes to catch the broth.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 430 | Protein: 38g | Fat: 27g | Carbs: 6g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 620mg