The restaurant build-out continues. I'm at the Westheimer space twice a week now — after work, checking progress, answering equipment questions. The hood system is installed over the smoker. The cook line is being wired. The walk-in cooler has been repaired and tested. Each visit reveals something new: tile going down, walls being painted, the bar counter being set. It's becoming a restaurant. The space that was bare studs and dust two months ago is now recognizably a place where people will eat. I walk through it and I see the menu on the walls that don't have menus yet. I see the smoke curling from the window. I see my daughter behind the counter. The vision is so clear it's almost painful.
Tyler called. Jessica is at thirty-five weeks. The baby could come anytime in the next five weeks. He's oscillating between calm and panic at roughly thirty-minute intervals, which I told him was normal. He said, "Were you this nervous?" I said, "I was drunk and nervous, which is worse." He was quiet. Then he said, "I'm glad I'm not doing it that way." I said, "So am I, Tyler. So am I."
Ava is fourteen months and has entered the phase where she follows me around the kitchen grabbing at things on the counter. She reached for a knife on Tuesday (it was a butter knife, but still) and I moved it and said, "Not yet." She said, "COOK!" I said, "Yes. But not with knives. Not yet." She accepted this with the grudging patience of a person who has been told to wait for something she clearly deserves right now.
Made a pot of cháo vịt — duck congee — using leftover smoked duck. The rice porridge is silky and thick, the shredded smoked duck adds a depth of flavor that regular poached duck can't match, and the toppings — ginger, scallions, fried shallots, a drizzle of sesame oil — turn it into something that heals whatever ails you. I brought a container to Mai. She tasted it and said, "The duck is good." Not "your congee is good." "The duck is good." Meaning: my smoking technique passed muster. The congee itself, apparently, is above discussion. I'll take it.
The cháo vịt takes hours and patience I don’t always have — but the impulse behind it, that need to make something layered and slow and warm, doesn’t go away just because the duck is gone. On the nights between restaurant walkthroughs, after Tyler’s calls and Ava’s small pronouncements, I reach for a pan and whatever is in the refrigerator. These pork chops, buried under a pile of onions cooked down until they’re almost sweet, finished with broth and cheese and time, scratch the same itch. It’s not congee. But it’s the same idea: take something humble and make it taste like you meant it.
One Pan French Onion Smothered Pork Chops
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 45 minutes | Total Time: 55 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 4 bone-in pork chops, about 1 inch thick
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 3/4 cup beef broth
- 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1 cup shredded Gruyere or Swiss cheese
- Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish
Instructions
- Season the chops. Pat pork chops dry with paper towels. Season both sides evenly with salt, pepper, and garlic powder.
- Sear. Heat olive oil in a large oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Sear pork chops 3–4 minutes per side until deeply browned. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
- Caramelize the onions. Reduce heat to medium. Add butter and sliced onions to the same pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 20–25 minutes until onions are golden and fully softened. Add garlic and thyme and cook another 2 minutes.
- Deglaze. Pour in the white wine and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Let the wine reduce by half, about 2 minutes. Add beef broth and Worcestershire sauce and stir to combine.
- Simmer the chops. Nestle the seared pork chops back into the pan, spooning onion mixture over the top. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer 10–12 minutes until pork chops are cooked through (internal temperature 145°F).
- Add the cheese. Preheat broiler to high. Uncover the pan, sprinkle shredded Gruyere evenly over the chops and onions, and broil 2–3 minutes until cheese is melted and bubbling with golden spots.
- Serve. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve directly from the pan. Good over mashed potatoes or with crusty bread to catch the onion gravy.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 430 | Protein: 39g | Fat: 23g | Carbs: 11g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 690mg