Heat wave by Anchorage standards. Eighty-one degrees. The city in collective shock. I made cold pancit. The trick is to make the pancit, let it cool, dress it again with calamansi and a little sesame oil, eat it at room temperature. Most Filipinos will tell you cold pancit is wrong. Most Filipinos do not live in an Anchorage apartment during a heat wave. I ate it on the balcony in the four-thirty light and watched the inlet turn silver and felt the particular peace of being awake before the city.
I went to Lourdes on Saturday. She is seventy-three. Her knees are starting to talk to her — that's how she puts it. She wanted to make lumpia for the Filipino Community Independence Day Picnic — the Philippines' Independence Day, June 12, but Anchorage celebrates it in July because the weather is more cooperative and the Filipinos are practical. I helped. The help is the visit. The visit is the seeing-her, the time in her kitchen, chopping carrots into matchsticks while she chops cabbage, talking about nothing and saying everything.
We made three hundred lumpia. Her hands paused more than they used to. She didn't complain. I didn't comment. The not-commenting is the respect.
The picnic was on Sunday. Three hundred Filipinos in Kincaid Park, the lumpia gone in twenty minutes, the kids running through the trees. I sat with the elders. I am thirty-four and unmarried and the elders treat me like a project. Auntie Norma, who is seventy-five and has known me since I was four, leaned over and said quietly, "Grace, you are happy?" I said yes. She said, "Then they should be quiet." She patted my hand. The hand-patting was the permission. The permission was a gift I didn't know I needed.
I kept thinking about Lourdes’s hands — how they paused, how they still knew exactly what to do, how three hundred lumpia came out of that kitchen the same way they always have. A few days after the picnic I found myself wanting to make something small and handmade, something that required the same quiet attention, the same repetition that is also rest. Mini challah felt right: little braided rolls, each one its own thing, all of them made to be put on a plate and passed around. That’s the whole point.
Mini Challah
Prep Time: 30 minutes | Cook Time: 20 minutes | Total Time: 50 minutes (plus 2 hours rise time) | Servings: 12 mini rolls
Ingredients
- 3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
- 2 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast (1 packet)
- 1/3 cup warm water (about 110°F)
- 1/3 cup warm whole milk
- 3 tablespoons honey
- 3 tablespoons neutral oil (such as vegetable or canola)
- 2 large eggs, divided
- 1 teaspoon fine salt
- 1 tablespoon water (for egg wash)
- Sesame seeds or poppy seeds for topping (optional)
Instructions
- Activate the yeast. Combine warm water, warm milk, and honey in a large bowl. Sprinkle yeast over the top and let sit 5–10 minutes until foamy.
- Mix the dough. Add oil, 1 egg, and salt to the yeast mixture and whisk to combine. Add flour one cup at a time, stirring with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms.
- Knead. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 8–10 minutes until smooth and slightly tacky but not sticky. Add flour a tablespoon at a time only if the dough is unworkably wet.
- First rise. Place dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm spot for 1 to 1 1/2 hours until doubled in size.
- Divide and braid. Punch dough down and divide into 12 equal portions. Divide each portion into 3 small ropes about 6 inches long. Pinch the tops together, braid loosely, and pinch the ends to seal. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing 2 inches apart.
- Second rise. Cover loosely and let rise 30–45 minutes until puffed.
- Egg wash and bake. Preheat oven to 375°F. Whisk remaining egg with 1 tablespoon water. Brush each mini challah gently with egg wash and sprinkle with seeds if using. Bake 18–22 minutes until deep golden brown.
- Cool. Let rest on the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. Best served warm or at room temperature the same day.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 175 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 4g | Carbs: 29g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 210mg