The fourth magazine column is due in June and I've been working on the subject all week. The piece is about winter cooking as philosophy — the idea that cooking heavy food in the winter isn't just practical but attitudinal, a form of hospitality toward the season rather than resistance to it. The person who embraces winter cooking has made a decision about their relationship to difficulty: they've found the good in it rather than waiting for it to be over. That's a disposable insight if you keep it abstract. The column will be specific: specific dishes, specific nights, specific people at the table.
Took on a new therapeutic case this week — a Welsh pony named Anchor with a long history of mismanagement by a previous owner. The feet are a mess: underrun heels, broken back hoof axis, white line disease in all four. The new owner is a woman named Diana who bought him at auction and is doing everything right. She'd done her research before calling me, knew what she had, wasn't expecting miracles. I told her it would be six months of regular work before we saw real improvement. She said: I'm not going anywhere. Those are the clients that make the hard cases worth taking on.
Rhubarb came up in the garden this week. Colleen was out there pointing at it when I came back from the Kowalski place on Tuesday. She said: First stalks. I said: Pie this weekend. She said: Not yet, they need to get bigger. We had this same conversation last year and the year before that. The rhubarb comes up, we negotiate the timing, the pie arrives when she says it's ready. That's the correct procedure.
Colleen’s right, of course — the rhubarb needs more time, and the correct procedure is to wait. But the pie conversation had already started in my head, and once that happens there’s no putting it back. Maple Syrup Pie is what I make in that in-between stretch when the garden is waking up but not quite ready: it uses what’s already in the pantry, it asks for patience at every step, and it tastes like something that knows exactly what it is. A good bridge pie — honest, unhurried, worth making.
Maple Syrup Pie
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 45 min | Total Time: 1 hr | Servings: 8
Ingredients
- 1 unbaked 9-inch pie shell
- 1 cup pure maple syrup
- 1/2 cup heavy cream
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
- 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Instructions
- Preheat oven. Heat your oven to 375°F. Place the unbaked pie shell in a 9-inch pie dish and crimp the edges. Refrigerate while you prepare the filling.
- Mix the filling. In a medium bowl, whisk together the maple syrup, heavy cream, flour, softened butter, beaten eggs, salt, and vanilla extract until smooth and fully combined.
- Fill the shell. Remove the chilled pie shell from the refrigerator and pour the maple filling evenly into it. The filling will be fairly liquid — that’s expected.
- Bake. Place the pie on the center rack and bake for 40–45 minutes, until the filling is set around the edges but has only a slight wobble at the center. A knife inserted one inch from the edge should come out clean.
- Cool completely. Transfer the pie to a wire rack and let it cool for at least 2 hours before slicing. The filling continues to set as it cools — do not rush this step.
- Serve. Slice and serve at room temperature or slightly warm, with a dollop of whipped cream or a small scoop of vanilla ice cream if you like.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 310 | Protein: 4g | Fat: 14g | Carbs: 43g | Fiber: 1g | Sodium: 180mg