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Lucy Wang Mini Omakase — The Ninety-Second Bowl That Held the Week Together

Father's Day. I called Ken in Sacramento. The Parkinson's makes the calls slower now. I do most of the talking. I told him about the garden. I told him about Miya.

Miya, 10, can shape onigiri without falling apart. She uses wet hands. She knows the order without being told. I called Ken in Sacramento. The pauses are longer now. I asked about the daikon. He told me, slowly, about the recent harvest. He grew six. They were perfect.

Cold tofu with bonito flakes and ginger. The simplest summer protein. A bowl that takes ninety seconds.

Barbara called Sunday. We talked for twenty minutes. She told me about the play she is directing. I told her about the kitchen.

The week held. The work continues.

A panic flicker Tuesday evening, brief, manageable. I breathed. I drank water. I went outside and walked around the block. The flicker passed. The body did its work.

The neighbor's dog barked at nothing for twenty minutes Sunday afternoon. The neighbor apologized. I told him I had been writing through it and the white noise was helpful. He laughed.

The rain in long sheets Tuesday afternoon. I made tea. I watched it from the porch. The cottonwoods on the next block were silver in the wet.

The newsletter went out Sunday morning. The opening line took an hour. The piece took five. The piece was what it needed to be.

Miya's old room is now my office. The desk is by the window. The shiso outside. The newsletter in progress. The afternoons are quiet.

Therapy Tuesday. We talked about the wedding. We talked about Barbara. We talked about Fumiko. The hour passed. The work continues.

I cleaned the kitchen Sunday afternoon. Wiped the counters. Reorganized the drawer where the chopsticks live. Sharpened the knife. The reset was the reset.

The cat was the cat. Mochi at fifteen sleeps most of the day. She still eats with enthusiasm. She still sits at the kitchen window watching the back garden.

Made dashi at five-thirty AM. Ten minutes in the kitchen alone with the kombu and the bonito flakes. The day's first prayer.

I wrote at the kitchen table from six to eight. The newsletter was forming. The opening sentence was the hard sentence — they always are. I rewrote it five times. The fifth time was the right time.

A reader sent me a handwritten card this week. Her grandmother had cooked Japanese food in 1970s Boise. She had felt alone in it. The newsletter, she wrote, made her feel less alone. I taped the card to the wall above my desk.

Coffee with a friend Saturday morning. We talked about books, about kids, about the way our forties became our fifties. The talking is the thing.

I texted Miya a photo of the shiso. She texted back a heart and a single word: home.

I made onigiri for tomorrow's lunch. Three triangles. Salted plum in the center. Wrapped in nori. The cling wrap. The drawer where I keep them. The system.

I drove to Uwajimaya Wednesday. Kombu, bonito flakes, white miso, a small bag of mochiko for tomorrow's project. The store smells like home.

Sunday farmers market in the rain. The vendors knew me. The Hood River apple stand had honeycrisps. I bought four pounds.

Miya is in elementary school. The Saturday Japanese school continues. She still complains. She is still going.

I read for an hour Sunday night. A book of essays by a Korean-American writer about food and grief. I underlined a paragraph that said exactly what I had been trying to say in the newsletter for months.

The week asked a lot — the long pauses on the phone with Ken, the panic flicker on Tuesday, the hour it took to write one opening sentence — and I kept coming back to what I’d written almost as a note to myself in the middle of it all: cold tofu with bonito flakes and ginger, the simplest summer protein, a bowl that takes ninety seconds. Lucy Wang’s Mini Omakase is that instinct formalized into something beautiful: a few precise things, composed with care, that ask almost nothing of you and give back something that feels ceremonial. After a week of long calls and longer silences, that felt exactly right.

Lucy Wang Mini Omakase

Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 5 minutes | Total Time: 15 minutes | Servings: 2

Ingredients

  • 1 block (14 oz) silken tofu, refrigerated and very cold
  • 1 cup cold water
  • 1 small piece kombu (about 4 inches), wiped clean
  • 1/4 cup loosely packed bonito flakes (katsuobushi), divided
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon mirin
  • 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
  • 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
  • 2 green onions, thinly sliced on the bias
  • 1/2 teaspoon flaky sea salt
  • Optional: a few drops of ponzu, a pinch of shichimi togarashi

Instructions

  1. Make the quick dashi. Combine cold water and kombu in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Warm until just below a simmer, about 4 minutes — do not boil. Remove kombu. Add half the bonito flakes, remove from heat, and let steep 2 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and let cool slightly.
  2. Build the tare. Whisk soy sauce, mirin, and sesame oil into the strained dashi. Taste and adjust — it should be savory, lightly sweet, and just salty enough. Set aside.
  3. Slice the tofu. Drain the silken tofu gently and slice into 4 even slabs using a thin, sharp knife. Arrange two slabs in each shallow bowl, keeping them cold until the moment of serving.
  4. Dress and compose. Spoon the tare evenly over each bowl of tofu. Top each portion with a small mound of grated ginger, the remaining bonito flakes (they will tremble and curl from the warmth of the sauce), sliced green onion, and a pinch of flaky sea salt.
  5. Serve immediately. Bring to the table cold, with a small dish of ponzu and shichimi on the side if using. Eat slowly. This is the whole point.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 130 | Protein: 11g | Fat: 7g | Carbs: 6g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 780mg

Jen Nakamura
About the cook who shared this
Jen Nakamura
Week 534 of Jen’s 30-year story · Portland, Oregon
Jen is a forty-year-old yoga instructor and divorced mom in Portland who traded panic attacks for plants and never looked back. She's Japanese-American on her father's side — third-generation, with a family history that includes wartime internment and generational silence — and white on her mother's. Her cooking is plant-forward, intuitive, and deeply influenced by both her Japanese grandmother's techniques and the Pacific Northwest farmers market she visits every Saturday rain or shine. Which in Portland means mostly rain.

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