By April 2024. Easter and the whole family together, which doesn't happen without planning anymore — Ethan has his schedule, Olivia has college, everybody is in a different orbit. But Easter is one of the fixed points, like Thanksgiving and Christmas, where the orbits converge. The glazed ham, the lemon bundt cake, the traditions that hold the family together by being the same every year.
Ethan told us at Easter dinner. He was going to open the restaurant. Not someday — this year. He'd found a small space in Salt Lake City, a twelve-table room in a neighborhood he believes in, and the financing was close to arranged. He'd been talking to the SBA and a private investor from his current restaurant's network. He said it would be called "Table." Just that. Table.
The family sat with it for a moment. Gary said, "Tell me about the concept." Ethan told us. Simple food, excellent ingredients, no pretension. A menu that changes with the season. A kitchen that's visible from the dining room. A room where people feel comfortable spending two hours. "The kind of place you go back to," he said, "because it feels like somewhere you know."
Gary nodded slowly. He said, "Your mother said something like that once. About why the channel works." Ethan looked at me. I said, "I said it about kitchens people trust." He said, "That's the restaurant." Yes. That's the restaurant. My son is opening a restaurant called Table and it will feel like somewhere you know. Of course it will.
Easter has always meant lemon at our table—something about the brightness of it feels exactly right for a day that’s supposed to feel like a beginning. After Ethan’s announcement, I wanted the dessert to match the moment: something light but worth pausing over, something that felt like a celebration without trying too hard. This Lemon Meringue Angel Cake has been in our rotation for years, but that Easter it felt less like a tradition and more like a toast—to a son who is building a place where people feel like they’re somewhere they know.
Lemon Meringue Angel Cake
Prep Time: 25 min | Cook Time: 40 min | Total Time: 1 hr 5 min | Servings: 12
Ingredients
- 1 package (16 oz) angel food cake mix
- 1 cup water (or as directed on package)
- 1 tablespoon lemon zest, divided
- 1 jar (10 oz) lemon curd
- 3 large egg whites, room temperature
- 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
- 1/2 cup granulated sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Instructions
- Bake the cake. Prepare angel food cake mix according to package directions, stirring in 2 teaspoons of lemon zest into the batter. Pour into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan and bake as directed, usually 35–40 minutes at 350°F, until the top is golden and cracks appear dry. Invert pan and cool completely, about 1 hour.
- Slice and fill. Once cooled, remove cake from pan. Using a serrated knife, cut the cake horizontally into three even layers. Stir the lemon juice into the lemon curd to loosen it slightly, then spread half over the bottom layer. Place the middle layer on top and spread the remaining curd over it. Set the top layer back in place.
- Make the meringue. In a clean, grease-free bowl, beat egg whites and cream of tartar with an electric mixer on medium speed until foamy. Increase to high and gradually add sugar, one tablespoon at a time, beating until stiff glossy peaks form. Beat in vanilla and the remaining lemon zest.
- Frost and finish. Spread meringue over the top and sides of the assembled cake, swirling decoratively with the back of a spoon. Use a kitchen torch to lightly toast the meringue to golden peaks, or place under the broiler for 1–2 minutes, watching closely to avoid burning.
- Serve. Slice with a serrated knife and serve immediately, or refrigerate uncovered for up to 2 hours before serving. Bring to room temperature for 15 minutes before slicing for best texture.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 245 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 1g | Carbs: 55g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 310mg