August is the month that tricks you. In May and June, summer feels like a gift. In July, it is simply the season. In August, the heat has been going long enough that it starts to feel like an imposition, a houseguest who will not leave, and Hartford in August has a specific heaviness that Bayamón never had — because in Bayamón the ocean is nearby and the afternoon rain relieves things, and here there is no ocean and the rain comes or doesn't based on its own schedule, which is not the same as the Puerto Rican three o'clock guarantee.
Mami had a difficult week. Several days where she was not quite sure where she was — she kept asking about Ana, wanting Ana to come for a reason she couldn't specify, and I called Ana, who is in Bridgeport, who talked to Mami for an hour on the phone, and Mami calmed down. Ana has always been able to do this — reach Mami when the rest of us can't. It is a particular gift, the one born after you in a big family, the one who knows you by following. Ana learned Mami by watching me learn Mami, and somewhere in that watching she found a frequency the rest of us don't always access. I am grateful for Ana. I tell her this. She says, Mami is fine, Carmen. She always comes back. This is true. Mami always comes back. I hold this truth the way you hold a seed in winter — with the faith that something living is still in there, waiting for conditions to be right.
I made sopa de fideo for Mami this week — the thin noodle soup, simple, the color of sofrito and tomato, the soup of sick days and uncertain days and days when someone you love needs something warm that doesn't ask them to work for the flavor. It is the easiest soup in the repertoire and the most reliable. Mami ate two bowls without prompting. She looked at me over the second bowl and said, Ana. And then, a minute later: Carmen. Both names, in order. I said, Yes, Mami. I'm here. She said, I know. She went back to her telenovela. That was enough. Some days that is everything.
Sofía starts her second year at the community college next week. She has applied to transfer into the nursing program at the University of Hartford. The essay, she tells me, is about the Guatemalan woman at the clinic, the sandwich, the forty minutes with the translation app. I said, that is exactly right. Write that. Write exactly what happened. The essay should taste like the truth. She looked at me like I was being Carmen again. I was being Carmen. I am always being Carmen. It is the only thing I know how to be.
The version I made for Mami that week was the true sopa de fideo — the one she taught me, plain and warm and asking nothing of her. But when I make noodles for myself, when I need something that is both light and grounding, I come back to this: thin spaghetti with lemon and basil and the crunch of toasted almonds, which is a dish that manages to feel like comfort and brightness at the same time, the way August sometimes surprises you with a cool evening when you had stopped expecting one. It is fast enough to make on the hardest days, and good enough to make on the easy ones.
Lemon Basil Spaghetti with Almonds
Prep Time: 10 minutes | Cook Time: 15 minutes | Total Time: 25 minutes | Servings: 4
Ingredients
- 12 oz spaghetti
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
- Zest of 2 lemons
- 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 1/2 cup sliced almonds
- 1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn
- 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
- 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for pasta water
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- Grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano, for serving (optional)
Instructions
- Toast the almonds. In a large dry skillet over medium heat, add the sliced almonds and toast, stirring frequently, until golden and fragrant, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.
- Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook spaghetti according to package directions until al dente. Before draining, reserve 1/2 cup of pasta cooking water. Drain and set aside.
- Build the sauce. Return the skillet to medium-low heat and add the olive oil. Add the sliced garlic and cook, stirring, until softened and just beginning to turn golden, about 2 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes if using, and cook 30 seconds more.
- Combine. Add the drained spaghetti directly to the skillet along with the lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Toss well to coat, adding reserved pasta water a splash at a time until the sauce lightly clings to the noodles.
- Finish and serve. Remove from heat and fold in the torn basil and most of the toasted almonds. Divide among bowls, top with remaining almonds and grated cheese if desired, and serve immediately.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 430 | Protein: 13g | Fat: 17g | Carbs: 58g | Fiber: 4g | Sodium: 290mg