Angela's wedding is four months away and the planning has reached the intensity phase — the phase where decisions multiply and opinions clash and the bride oscillates between joy and despair with the frequency of a radio tuner. Angela, who manages dental offices with precision and calm, is discovering that wedding planning operates outside the laws of organizational physics. The caterer changed the menu. The florist can't get sampaguita. The church has a scheduling conflict. Angela called me at 11 PM on Tuesday to say, "I'm going to elope," and I said, "No you're not. Mama has already made plans for three hundred lumpia," and Angela said, "I know," and the "I know" contained the entire weight of being a Santos daughter who cannot cancel a lumpia order without causing a family crisis of geopolitical proportions.
I offered to handle the food. The Filipino food, specifically — the adobo, the pancit, the lumpia, the lechon kawali. The American food — the cake, the appetizers — can come from the caterer. But the Filipino food is family responsibility. Lourdes will make the lumpia. I will make the adobo and pancit. We will order the lechon from a Filipino family in Eagle River who roasts whole pigs for events. This is how a Filipino-American wedding works: two caterers, two traditions, one table that holds both.
I made a test batch of the wedding adobo — scaled up, the large-event version, cooking for fifty instead of four. The proportions don't just multiply — they shift. More vinegar proportionally, because the larger volume dilutes the flavor. More garlic, always more garlic. Longer simmer, because the mass of chicken takes longer to braise. I cooked fifteen pounds of chicken thighs in two hotel pans and the kitchen became a sauna and the apartment smelled like a Filipino party and the adobo was — right. Wedding-right. Lourdes-approved-right. I called her and described the batch. She said, "How much vinegar?" I told her. She said, "More." I added more. She said, "Good. Now do it again in August."
The wedding food is my gift to Angela. Not the cooking — the cooking is labor. The gift is the caring, the attention, the willingness to stand in a kitchen for eight hours and make three hundred servings of food that tastes like our family. The gift is: I will feed your wedding the way I feed the ER, the way I feed the blog, the way I feed myself. With everything I have.
So this is the recipe—the wedding adobo, scaled up and Lourdes-approved after that test batch that turned my apartment into a steam room. If you’re cooking for a party or a potluck or just a very large family Sunday, you can halve it easily, but I’m giving you the full version because this is how I’ll be making it in August: fifteen pounds of chicken, two hotel pans, and more vinegar than you think you need.
Large-Batch Chicken Adobo
Prep Time: 30 minutes | Cook Time: 2 hours | Total Time: 2 hours 30 minutes | Servings: 50
Ingredients
- 15 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
- 3 cups soy sauce
- 3 cups white cane vinegar (or coconut vinegar)
- 1 cup water
- 3 whole heads garlic, cloves separated and crushed
- 8 dried bay leaves
- 2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar (optional, for slight sweetness)
Instructions
- Marinate the chicken. In two large hotel pans or deep roasting pans, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, water, crushed garlic, bay leaves, and peppercorns. Add the chicken thighs and turn to coat. Marinate for at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or up to overnight in the refrigerator.
- Start the braise. Place both pans over medium-high heat on your stovetop (or work in batches on a single burner). Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Cover tightly with foil.
- Simmer low and slow. Braise for 1 hour and 15 minutes, turning the chicken pieces once halfway through. The larger volume needs more time than a small batch—don’t rush it.
- Reduce the sauce. Remove the chicken pieces to sheet pans. Skim excess fat from the braising liquid. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer the sauce uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes until reduced by about one-third and slightly thickened. Stir in the brown sugar if using.
- Crisp the skin (optional but worth it). Heat vegetable oil in a large skillet over high heat. Working in batches, sear the chicken thighs skin-side down for 2 to 3 minutes until the skin is deeply golden and crisp.
- Combine and serve. Return the crisped chicken to the hotel pans and pour the reduced sauce over the top. Serve warm over steamed white rice. The adobo holds beautifully in a chafing dish for buffet service.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 280 | Protein: 26g | Fat: 16g | Carbs: 3g | Fiber: 0g | Sodium: 890mg