Kielbasa Chili — The Pot That Holds You When Nothing Else Will

New Year's Eve. The end of 2019. The end of the hardest year of my life — harder than 1998 when Michael died, because in 1998 I had Earl, and Earl was the thing that held me up when the ground gave way. This year the ground gave way and the thing that held me up was gone, and I had to find my own ground. I found it. In the kitchen. In the stove. In the cast iron skillet that has held my family's food for nearly a century and shows no signs of quitting.

Denise came over at nine. Kayla came at ten. We sat on the couch — three Henderson women, three generations — and we watched the ball drop on television and at midnight we raised our glasses (champagne for Denise and Kayla, ginger ale for me because champagne gives me a headache and I have enough headaches) and Denise said, "To 2020." Kayla said, "To Granny." I said, "To Earl." And we drank.

New Year's Day: black-eyed peas, collard greens, cornbread, ham hocks. The tradition. Hattie Pearl's tradition, and Pearl's before her, and whoever came before Pearl on Sapelo Island or in West Africa or wherever this ritual of peas-for-luck began. I cook them because the tradition asks to be continued, and I have never said no to a tradition that involves legumes.

I ate the peas at the table with Denise and Kayla. Earl's plate was set. The peas were good. The luck is uncertain. But I ate them with faith, which is the only way to eat anything, and I said to the empty chair: "Happy New Year, baby. I made it."

2019 is over. I survived it. That is not a small thing. That is, in fact, the biggest thing I have ever done — bigger than raising four children, bigger than feeding a school, bigger than losing Michael. I survived the first year without Earl Henderson, and I am still here, and the stove is still on, and the food is still good. That's enough, baby. That is everything.

Now go on and feed somebody.

The black-eyed peas are the ritual, but a pot of chili is the thing that keeps the stove on through the rest of January — and January, Lord knows, needs all the help it can get. This kielbasa chili is what I make when the ceremony is over and the real surviving begins: smoky sausage, beans that hold their shape, and enough depth in the pot to remind you that warmth is something you can make yourself. Earl would have eaten two bowls and asked for a third. I make it for the same reason I set his plate — because the cooking is how I talk to him now.

Kielbasa Chili

Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 40 min | Total Time: 55 min | Servings: 8

Ingredients

• 1 lb kielbasa (smoked Polish sausage), sliced into 1/4-inch coins
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 1 green bell pepper, diced
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 cans (15 oz each) kidney beans, drained and rinsed
• 1 can (15 oz) pinto beans, drained and rinsed
• 1 can (28 oz) crushed tomatoes
• 1 can (14.5 oz) diced tomatoes, undrained
• 1 cup beef broth
• 2 tbsp chili powder
• 1 tsp smoked paprika
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp garlic powder
• 1/2 tsp onion powder
• 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper (or to taste)
• Salt and black pepper to taste
• 1 tbsp olive oil or bacon drippings

Instructions

1. Brown the kielbasa. Heat oil or drippings in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add kielbasa slices in a single layer and cook 3–4 minutes per side until lightly browned. Remove sausage and set aside, leaving the drippings in the pot.
2. Soften the vegetables. Reduce heat to medium. Add the diced onion and bell pepper to the pot and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5–6 minutes until softened. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more until fragrant.
3. Build the base. Stir in the chili powder, smoked paprika, cumin, garlic powder, onion powder, and cayenne. Cook the spices with the vegetables for 1–2 minutes, stirring constantly, to bloom the flavor.
4. Add the liquids and beans. Pour in the crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes, and beef broth. Add all three cans of beans and stir to combine. Return the browned kielbasa to the pot.
5. Simmer low and slow. Bring the chili to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to low. Simmer uncovered for 25–30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the chili thickens and the flavors come together. Taste and adjust salt, pepper, and cayenne as needed.
6. Serve. Ladle into bowls and serve hot. Top with shredded cheddar, sour cream, sliced green onions, or cornbread crumbles if you have them. Set a place at the table for anyone who needs one.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 318 | Protein: 17g | Fat: 14g | Carbs: 30g | Fiber: 8g | Sodium: 870mg