November 2021. Fall in Memphis, and I am 63, walking the neighborhood in my light jacket, watching the leaves turn on the oaks and maples that line Deadrick Avenue. The smoker is happy in fall — the cooler air holds the smoke lower, keeps it closer to the meat, and the results are always a shade better in October than in July, as if the season itself is a seasoning.
Rosetta beside me through the week, steady as ever, the woman who runs this household with the precision of a hospital ward and the heart of a mother who has loved fiercely for 38 years of marriage. Walter Jr. came by with the grandchildren, bringing the noise and energy that grandchildren bring, the house expanding to hold them the way a good pot expands to hold a good stew.
Ribs this week — spare ribs, dry-rubbed, five hours at 225, no foil, no rush. The Memphis way. The bark cracked when I bit into it, and the flavor was layered: smoke first, then spice, then the sweetness of the pork, each layer arriving on its own schedule, patient as a sermon. Rosetta ate two ribs and said nothing negative, which is a standing ovation from the toughest critic in my life.
Sunday at Mt. Zion, the choir sang and I sat in my pew and let the music hold me. The bass notes I used to add are quieter now — my voice is aging, the way everything ages — but the listening is its own participation, and the church holds me the way the church has held this community for a hundred years: faithfully, unconditionally, with room for everyone who shows up. I show up. That is enough.
Rosetta has always said that no matter how good the ribs are, a proper Sunday table needs something green on it — something that reminds you the meal is nourishing the whole person, not just the appetite. I’ve come around to kale the way I’ve come around to a lot of things at 63: slowly, and with respect. It massages down tender, holds its flavor like a patient man holds a conversation, and it sits alongside smoke and spice the way a good deacon sits alongside the pastor — quiet, essential, never trying to take over. After a week of grandchildren and choir and five hours at the smoker, this is the green that belongs on the table.
Kale Salad Recipe
Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 0 min | Total Time: 15 min | Servings: 6
Ingredients
- 1 large bunch curly kale (about 10–12 oz), stems removed, leaves torn or chopped
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
- 1 teaspoon honey
- 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
- 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
- 1/4 cup toasted sunflower seeds or pepitas
- 1/4 cup dried cranberries
- 1/2 cup shredded carrots
Instructions
- Prep the kale. Remove tough center stems from kale leaves and discard. Tear or chop leaves into bite-sized pieces and place in a large mixing bowl.
- Make the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, apple cider vinegar, honey, garlic powder, salt, and black pepper until well combined.
- Massage the kale. Pour the dressing over the kale. Using clean hands, massage the leaves firmly for 2–3 minutes until they soften, darken slightly, and reduce in volume by about a third. This step is essential — don’t skip it.
- Add the toppings. Fold in the shredded carrots, dried cranberries, and toasted seeds. Toss to distribute evenly throughout the salad.
- Finish and serve. Sprinkle the grated Parmesan over the top. Taste and adjust salt or lemon juice as needed. Serve immediately, or let rest up to 30 minutes — the kale only improves as it sits.
Nutrition (per serving)
Calories: 148 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 9g | Carbs: 13g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 210mg