Kale Colcannon — The Side Dish That Holds the Table Together

Christmas at Gayle's house. I decided weeks ago that we would go to Gayle because I could not stand the idea of her alone in that house on Christmas, the house where Larry's boots are still by the back door, the house where his coffee cup is still in the cabinet, the house where Gayle lives among the artifacts of a man who died two months ago and who will never not live in that house as long as the walls stand.

Gayle set Larry's place at the table. A plate, silverware, a glass of water. Nobody mentioned it. Nobody moved the plate. The setting was a statement, not a question: he is still here. He is still part of this table. The table does not forget. I looked at the plate and then I looked at Gayle and she was looking at me with the face of a woman who dared me to say something, and I did not say something, because what would I say? The plate is right. The plate is exactly right.

I made everything Gayle used to make. The full spread. I cooked in her kitchen, in the kitchen where I learned to cook, with the pots that taught my hands what they know. Gayle sat at the table and supervised, which means she told me the gravy was too thin and the stuffing needed more sage and the turkey was fine, just fine, which from Gayle is the highest praise. The turkey was twenty-two pounds. It fed seven people and produced enough leftovers to last a week. This is correct.

Josie is eight and asked where Grandpa's present goes. Under the tree, I said. We left it there — a flannel shirt I had bought Larry in October, before. I did not know what to do with it, so I wrapped it and put it under the tree and it stayed there, wrapped, through Christmas Day, through the cleanup, through the drive home. It is in the closet now. I do not know what to do with it. Dave says I will know when I know. Dave is right about most things, eventually.

After dinner, the kids watched a movie at Gayle's while Dave and I did the dishes. We stood at her sink, me washing, him drying, the way we have done a thousand times in a thousand kitchens, and the rhythm was the same and the kitchen was the same but the world outside the kitchen was different, permanently different, and the dish towel in Dave's hand was the only thing keeping me upright.

I have been asked for the colcannon recipe more times than I can count since that Christmas, and every time I am a little surprised, because the turkey was the thing I was proud of, but the colcannon was the thing people kept coming back to. I made it in Gayle’s biggest pot — the one with the dented lid she has had since before I knew her — and it sat on the table next to the turkey and next to Larry’s plate, and it was warm and green and substantial, which is what a table like that needs: something that takes up space without asking for anything. Make it the same way every time. That is the whole point.

Kale Colcannon

Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 30 min | Total Time: 45 min | Servings: 8

Ingredients

• 3 lbs Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
• 4 cups kale, stems removed, leaves finely chopped
• 1/2 cup whole milk, warmed
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for serving
• 4 green onions, thinly sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 teaspoon salt, plus more for the potato water
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• Pinch of nutmeg

Instructions

1. Boil the potatoes. Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook 18–22 minutes, until completely tender when pierced with a fork. Drain well and return to the pot.
2. Soften the kale. While the potatoes cook, melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and green onions and cook 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the chopped kale and a splash of water. Cover and cook 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until kale is tender and bright green. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
3. Mash the potatoes. Using a potato masher or ricer, mash the drained potatoes until smooth. Pour in the warm milk and remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and mash until creamy. Do not overmix.
4. Combine. Fold the kale mixture into the mashed potatoes until evenly distributed. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. Add nutmeg.
5. Serve. Transfer to a serving bowl and make a shallow well in the center. Add a pat of butter and let it melt before bringing to the table. Serve hot alongside turkey, roasted meats, or whatever the table is holding together that night.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 210 | Protein: 5g | Fat: 7g | Carbs: 33g | Fiber: 4g | Sodium: 320mg