Jumbo Jalapeño Cheddar Rolls

Groundhog saw his shadow, which means six more weeks of winter, which means nothing because Kentucky doesn't consult groundhogs about its weather — it does what it wants, when it wants, and last Tuesday it was sixty-two degrees and sunny and Thursday it was twenty-nine and sleeting and Friday it was forty-five and overcast and the groundhog can take his shadow and go back to bed for all the good it does.

Made a pork roast Sunday. Boston butt, five pounds, braised in the Dutch oven with onion and garlic and chicken stock and a can of beer, low and slow for four hours until the meat fell apart and the liquid reduced to a thick, porky, beer-infused gravy that coated the back of a spoon and tasted like a decision I'd made correctly. Served it over mashed potatoes with the gravy ladled on top and green beans on the side and biscuits, and the table was set for four because Clay is still at the house and still sober and still going to the program and still seeing Dr. Rivera and the word still is doing a lot of heavy lifting in that sentence.

Amber called Saturday. She's been seeing someone — a doctor at the hospital, a surgeon, she didn't say much, just that his name is James and he's kind and he asked her to dinner and she said yes and they've been out three times and she's telling me now because she wants my opinion but also doesn't want my opinion, which is the specific paradox of being a woman who loves her father and also doesn't need his permission. I said is he good to you. She said yes. I said then he's fine with me. She said Dad, you haven't met him. I said I don't need to meet him to know you wouldn't date someone who isn't good to you because I raised you better than that and also Connie raised you better than that. She laughed. I'll meet him. I'll shake his hand and look him in the eye and decide in three seconds if he's worthy, which he probably is because Amber chose him and Amber is smarter than me by a considerable margin.

The pork roast and the gravy were going to carry themselves — four hours in the Dutch oven has a way of handling that — but I wanted something at the table that had a little personality, something with enough presence to sit next to a five-pound Boston butt and not feel embarrassed. These Jumbo Jalapeño Cheddar Rolls are what I landed on. Sharp cheddar and jalapeño in a soft, pull-apart roll that’s half biscuit in spirit and all the way serious about its job. The week had been uneven, the weather had been ridiculous, and Clay was still at the table — and that last thing, especially, called for a meal that felt like it meant something, right down to the bread.

Prep Time: 20 min | Cook Time: 22 min | Total Time: 42 min (plus 1 hr 30 min rise) | Servings: 8 rolls

Ingredients

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for dusting
1 packet (2 1/4 tsp) active dry yeast
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp onion powder
1 cup warm whole milk (110°F)
3 tbsp unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled
1 large egg, room temperature
1 1/2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, shredded, divided
2–3 fresh jalapeños, seeded and finely diced (about 1/3 cup)
2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted (for brushing)
Flaky sea salt, for topping

Instructions

Activate the yeast. In a large mixing bowl, combine warm milk, sugar, and yeast. Stir gently and let sit for 5–8 minutes until foamy. If it doesn’t foam, your yeast is dead — start over with fresh yeast.
Build the dough. Whisk the melted butter and egg into the yeast mixture. Add 3 cups of flour, the salt, garlic powder, and onion powder. Stir until a shaggy dough forms, then mix in 1 cup of the shredded cheddar and all of the diced jalapeños.
Knead until smooth. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Knead for 6–8 minutes, adding the remaining 1/2 cup flour a little at a time as needed, until the dough is smooth, elastic, and only slightly tacky. It should spring back when you poke it.
First rise. Shape the dough into a ball and place in a lightly oiled bowl, turning once to coat. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel and let rise in a warm spot for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
Shape the rolls. Punch the dough down and turn it onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 8 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a tight ball by pulling the edges down and pinching them at the bottom. Arrange in a greased 9x13-inch baking pan with the pinched sides down, spacing them evenly.
Second rise. Cover the pan loosely and let the rolls rise for 25–30 minutes, until puffed and touching each other at the edges. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 375°F.
Top and bake. Brush the tops of the rolls generously with melted butter. Scatter the remaining 1/2 cup shredded cheddar evenly over the top. Bake for 20–22 minutes, until the rolls are deep golden brown on top and sound hollow when tapped. If the cheese is browning too fast, tent loosely with foil after 15 minutes.
Finish and serve. Remove from the oven and brush again with melted butter while hot. Sprinkle lightly with flaky sea salt. Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes before pulling apart and serving. These are best eaten warm, alongside anything with gravy.

Nutrition (per serving)

Jumbo Jalapeño Cheddar Rolls — The Biscuits That Earned Their Place at the Table