Italian Sweet Bread

Sean III turned three. The party was at Patrick and Colleen's small house in West Roxbury — a backyard, a bouncy castle, twelve children, four exhausted adults, and a sheet cake decorated with fire trucks because the boy is obsessed with what his father does for a living.

Liam was the oldest kid there. Patrick made him junior commander of the bouncy castle. Liam took it seriously. Nora had blue frosting on her face for two hours.

I made my potato salad. Colleen had assigned me potato salad in March, which is how Colleen does parties.

Connor and Jess drove up from Plymouth — the second time in three weeks, which feels almost normal. Jess sat next to me at the picnic table and asked if I wanted to come down to the Cape for a weekend in August. I said yes before I thought about it. I will think about it later.

Clinic — a 78-year-old man came in Monday with his daughter, who told me he hasn't been eating. He told me he has been eating. The daughter and I exchanged the look. I made a referral to nutrition and a follow up in three weeks. It's not always cancer. It's sometimes loneliness.

Group Tuesday. Diane talked for the first time about the day her husband died. I cried. I do not always cry in group. This week I did.

Meghan called at 11 Saturday after the party. She said Sean III ate seven hot dogs. I said no he didn't. She said I counted. He did.

Sunday dinner at Ma's. Light dinner because of the party. Soup and a salad. Ma made minestrone — the way she does it, with the rind of parmesan boiled in the broth.

Saturday pancakes. Burned the first one. The blue plate is starting to chip on one edge. I will not replace it. I will not.

Food of the week: Ma's minestrone. The parmesan rind makes it.

Sunday dinner at Ma’s is a light lift after a party weekend — soup, salad, good company — but it’s never actually light in the way that matters. The minestrone with the parmesan rind is hers and hers alone, but what I always want alongside it is something to tear and pass down the table, something warm and a little sweet that makes the whole meal feel like it was planned with love even when it wasn’t. This Italian sweet bread is that thing. It’s what I bring when Ma’s already made the soup and I want to contribute something that says I showed up.

Prep Time: 20 minutes + 1 hour 30 minutes rise | Cook Time: 30 minutes | Total Time: 2 hours 20 minutes | Servings: 12

Ingredients

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading
2 1/4 teaspoons active dry yeast (1 packet)
1/2 cup warm whole milk (110°F)
1/4 cup warm water (110°F)
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Zest of 1 lemon
1 egg yolk + 1 tablespoon milk (egg wash)
Coarse sugar or sesame seeds for topping (optional)

Instructions

Activate the yeast. Combine warm water, warm milk, and 1 teaspoon of the sugar in a small bowl. Sprinkle yeast over the top and let sit 5–10 minutes until foamy.
Mix the dough. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, remaining sugar, salt, and lemon zest. Make a well in the center and add the yeast mixture, softened butter, eggs, and vanilla. Stir until a shaggy dough forms.
Knead. Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead 8–10 minutes until smooth and elastic. The dough should be soft and slightly tacky but not sticky. Add flour a tablespoon at a time only if needed.
First rise. Place dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm spot for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
Shape the loaf. Punch dough down gently. Divide into three equal pieces and roll each into a 16-inch rope. Braid the ropes together on a parchment-lined baking sheet and tuck the ends under. Or shape into a single round loaf.
Second rise. Cover loosely and let rise 30 minutes, until noticeably puffed.
Preheat and egg wash. Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk together egg yolk and milk and brush gently over the loaf. Sprinkle with coarse sugar or sesame seeds if desired.
Bake. Bake 28–32 minutes until deep golden brown and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. An instant-read thermometer should read 190°F at the center. Cool on a wire rack at least 15 minutes before slicing.

Nutrition (per serving)

Italian Sweet Bread — The Sunday Table Ma Always Sets