Horseradish Mashed Potatoes

Memorial Day weekend and I find myself in the same position as last year — grilling ribs, making potato salad, listening to the neighborhood come alive after a winter of quiet. But the year is different. There is a lightness this May that I did not have last May. Destiny has her license. CJ and Shanice are talking about a house. The table at Bernice's Table is full. My tomatoes are in the ground. The things I was holding with worry have resolved or are in motion toward resolution, and the things I cannot control I have put in the category of things I cannot control, which is an ongoing practice that does not complete.

Travis came and helped grill this year, which CJ would have done except he and Shanice stayed in Huntsville for the holiday with her family. Travis is becoming a fixture in my kitchen — he appears with a willingness to be put to work that I have come to rely on. He is a good griller: attentive, not rushed, willing to adjust rather than insist. Marcus was also a good griller in this way. I am aware of the comparison and I think it is earned and I think Marcus would think so too.

After dinner Destiny and Travis stayed and we sat on the back porch and I told them about Rosemary's kitchen in Memphis — the smell of it, the cast iron, the way Rosemary moves around a stove. Destiny said, we should go together sometime. I said, yes, before she gets any older, we should. We made a loose plan that I intend to hold them to. Three women in a Memphis kitchen, recovering what we can of what was handed down. That is a good way to spend a weekend and I mean to do it.

I did not do a plain potato salad this year — I wanted something that had a little more presence on the table, something with a bite to it that matched the mood of the weekend. These horseradish mashed potatoes have been in my rotation for a few years now, and they are the kind of dish that people ask about without expecting to. Travis took a second helping without being offered one. That is the best review I know.

Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 25 min | Total Time: 40 min | Servings: 8

Ingredients

3 lbs russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 cup butter, softened
1/3 cup whole milk or half-and-half, warmed
2 to 3 tablespoons prepared horseradish (adjust to taste)
1 teaspoon salt, plus more for boiling water
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh chives, chopped (optional, for garnish)

Instructions

Boil the potatoes. Place potato chunks in a large pot and cover with cold salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook 18 to 22 minutes, until potatoes are very tender when pierced with a fork.
Drain and dry. Drain the potatoes thoroughly in a colander, then return them to the hot pot. Let them sit over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring gently, to evaporate any remaining moisture.
Mash and combine. Use a potato masher or hand mixer on low to mash the potatoes until mostly smooth. Add the butter and sour cream and continue mashing until incorporated.
Add the horseradish. Stir in the prepared horseradish, starting with 2 tablespoons. Taste and add the third tablespoon if you want a stronger bite. Add the warmed milk gradually, stirring until you reach your preferred consistency.
Season and serve. Stir in salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with chopped chives if using. Serve hot alongside ribs or your cookout main of choice.

Nutrition (per serving)

Horseradish Mashed Potatoes — The Side Dish That Carried the Weight of a Lighter May