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Ground Beef Vermicelli — The Bowl Tyler Brought to the Parking Lot

Ma has COVID. She called me Monday morning. Her voice was different — thin, raspy, with a cough I could hear through the phone like static. She said, "I have a fever." I said, "How high?" She said, "101." I said, "I'm coming." She said, "Don't come. Call Linh." Linh took over. Doctor mode. She called Ma's primary care physician, arranged a COVID test (this was still the era of scarce tests — Linh pulled strings), and the result came back Tuesday afternoon: positive. Ma is seventy-three years old with high blood pressure and COVID-19. I called in sick to work. I drove to Ma's house and parked in the driveway and I sat in my truck for four days. I'm not exaggerating. I sat in the driveway from 7 AM to 7 PM, four days in a row. I brought a cooler with food and water and a phone charger and I sat in my truck and I called her every hour and I listened to her breathe through the phone. Wednesday her fever hit 103. Linh called the hospital. Thursday morning, an ambulance came. I watched them take my mother out of her house on a stretcher. She was wearing her nightgown and her orthopedic shoes and she looked at me in the truck and she said, "Go home, Bao." I did not go home. She was admitted to Memorial Hermann. COVID ward. No visitors. I drove to the hospital and parked in the parking lot and I sat there. For four days. I sat in the parking lot of Memorial Hermann while my mother breathed through a tube on the sixth floor. Linh called me with updates every two hours. Oxygen levels dropping. They put her on supplemental oxygen. Not a ventilator — supplemental. The difference is the difference between terrifying and catastrophic. I didn't cook. For the first time since I got sober, I didn't cook. Tyler brought me food in the parking lot — pho he'd made himself, using my recipe, in my kitchen. He drove it to the hospital and handed it to me through the truck window and said, "Eat, Dad." My son brought me pho in a hospital parking lot. The role reversal. The chain bending back on itself. I ate it. It was good. Not as good as mine. Way better than it needed to be. Five days. Ma was in the hospital for five days. On Monday — Monday, April 27th — they called and said her oxygen levels were improving. She was off the supplemental. She was eating (she'd asked for congee and the hospital brought her oatmeal and she was furious). She was talking. She was alive. She came home Tuesday. I set up a quarantine system: food on the porch, medication in the doorway, phone calls every two hours. She's weak. She's tired. But she's alive. Ma survived a boat. Ma survived a flood. Ma survived COVID. The woman is indestructible. And I am broken. And I am putting myself back together, one phone call at a time, one porch delivery at a time, one breath at a time. The fire went out while she was in the hospital. The smoker sat cold for a week. I'm going to light it tomorrow. Because the fire needs to burn. Because when the fire burns, everything is going to be okay. Please let everything be okay.

Tyler didn’t make pho that night — not technically. He made what he could manage from what was in my kitchen: a ground beef vermicelli bowl, built from the bones of the recipe I’ve made him since he was small. It’s not the long-simmered broth I’d spend a Sunday on. It’s the weeknight version, the one you make when there’s no time, when someone needs to eat right now — and it turns out that’s exactly the version you need when you’re sitting in a hospital parking lot watching the sixth floor and praying. I’m writing it down here the way it should be made, so Tyler has it, and so you have it, for whatever parking lot you might find yourself in.

Ground Beef Vermicelli

Prep Time: 15 min | Cook Time: 20 min | Total Time: 35 min | Servings: 4

Ingredients

  • 8 oz rice vermicelli noodles
  • 1 lb ground beef (80/20)
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 shallot, thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons fish sauce
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon five-spice powder
  • 2 tablespoons neutral oil (vegetable or avocado)
  • 2 cups beef broth, warmed
  • 2 green onions, sliced thin
  • Fresh herbs for serving: Thai basil, cilantro, mint
  • Bean sprouts, lime wedges, and sliced chili for serving
  • Hoisin sauce and sriracha for the table

Instructions

  1. Soak the noodles. Place vermicelli in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Let soak 8–10 minutes until tender but still with a little bite. Drain, rinse under cold water, and set aside.
  2. Brown the beef. Heat oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and cook 2 minutes until softened and lightly golden. Add the garlic and cook 30 seconds until fragrant.
  3. Season the meat. Add the ground beef, breaking it up with a spoon. Cook 5–7 minutes until no pink remains. Drain any excess fat if needed, leaving about a tablespoon in the pan.
  4. Build the flavor. Add fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar, black pepper, and five-spice powder directly to the beef. Stir well and cook another 2 minutes, letting the sauce reduce slightly and coat the meat. Taste and adjust — it should be savory, a little sweet, deeply aromatic.
  5. Warm the broth. In a small saucepan, bring the beef broth to a gentle simmer. Season lightly with a splash of fish sauce if needed. This is your base — it doesn’t need to be complex, just hot and clean.
  6. Assemble the bowls. Divide the drained vermicelli among four bowls. Ladle the warm broth over the noodles. Spoon the seasoned ground beef over the top.
  7. Top and serve. Finish each bowl with green onions, fresh herbs, and bean sprouts. Serve with lime wedges, sliced chili, hoisin, and sriracha on the side so everyone can adjust to their own taste.

Nutrition (per serving)

Calories: 480 | Protein: 28g | Fat: 18g | Carbs: 52g | Fiber: 2g | Sodium: 920mg

Bobby Tran
About the cook who shared this
Bobby Tran
Week 213 of Bobby’s 30-year story · Houston, Texas
Bobby Tran was born in a refugee camp in Arkansas to parents who fled Saigon with nothing. He grew up in Houston straddling two worlds — Vietnamese at home, Texan everywhere else — and learned to cook from his mother's pho and a neighbor's BBQ smoker. He's a former shrimper, a recovering alcoholic, a divorced dad of three, and the guy who marinates brisket in fish sauce and lemongrass because he doesn't believe in borders, especially when it comes to flavor.

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